SmartyResource

AH64ID said:
Not to contradict you, but the SJR, S06, and SSR are all UDC capable, and have been since at least may. I have been tuning the Jr since April, even thou it wasn't listed as the first release.

May 18, 2012 - Software update
Smarty S06-PoD, Smarty JR and Smarty SSR: All 5.9L tuning softwares have been totally revised! Starting from this version all 5.9L softwares are now UDC capable. For more informations click here!



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I apologize! Not thinking clearly, I grabbed some outdated info in a frenzy to get traveling. 5 AM was too early for me to start posting. Thank you!
 
Honestly Brian, if you are here to help, you may wish to check in a bit more often. very easy to keep track of your posts, upper right area of screen, "replies" button will show you all the threads you have posted in. You may also wish to get your post edited to remove the bad info, you will be looked upon as a higher authority and people will tend to believe what you say as truth. I realize 5am is rough, but getting bad info is worse than no info. A " let me check on this and get back" shows you see the question, and are not ignoring us, and that you care to look for the info we need. Not trying to be harsh, but it only takes a few wrong turns, and no one will listen anymore.
 
Brian, How do you know what to change? I'm feeling a little overwhelmed. How about a little how to training to start off!
 
The point in UDC is to modify the standard tune to meet your needs/mods.

So you have to ask yourself, how would the SSR tune you were running be better?
 
the point? it has been suggested that we start with the ssr tuned to the best we can get, then import that, with its settings into UDC, as a baseline. Tuning from that point forward.
 
mikmaze said:
the point? it has been suggested that we start with the ssr tuned to the best we can get, then import that, with its settings into UDC, as a baseline. Tuning from that point forward.
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Exactly.. my point was that if you don't know what you want to change/improve up then UDC probably isn't needed. So you need to have a plan and list of improvements to start tuning, IMHO.

It's a tool to go above and beyond what comes in the box.
 
So I should go back to the SSR tune that worked best for me and smooth it out? How will I know if I'm going the right way? I tryed the sample file SSR10 and copied it to my existing file and What I got was a smooth flat torque which means it has no power in the seat and mileage also went down. Guess I'll try a little tweak at a time on the original seems this will take some time!!
 
Exactly!

Start with a known point and go from there. What were you running before?

Smooth it out, change the rpm/loads that didn't work well and modify it for how you use it.
 
so if we buy udc and upload it to s06 do we lose all the standard smarty catcher levels and settings?
 
What I've done so far is take tim40, rp10, dur30, smoothed them out and tweaked them. I also took AH's advice and lowered the timing in the ranges he mentioned to quicken the spool time. So far she's running awesome and surprisingly low smoke
 
I am lost still why people who could not tune with SSR thought they would be able to tune with something that requires even more knowledge and ability? Lol
 
cquestad said:
I am lost still why people who could not tune with SSR thought they would be able to tune with something that requires even more knowledge and ability? Lol
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lol glad someone else can see this also.. Use your UDC and call on a local shop to tune your truck now! Helping and giving out free tunes are two different things.. And a tune is only as good as the truck its going into!
 
Looking for info on best timing number for highway cruising at 2000rpm for MPG.
20 to 30 % load
 
How were you injectors made? Honed or edm...and by who? Does their burn rate advance timing over stock? Lots of questions before that can be answered.
 
dangerous06 said:
Looking for info on best timing number for highway cruising at 2000rpm for MPG.
20 to 30 % load
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For me I am finding that 100%-110% of the fuel being injected BTDC is work best.

Without knowing your rail pressure/duration settings once cannot give you a number.

The OH is inaccurate, but can be used as a ROUGH guideline.
 
ok with that said timing numbers should be in the neg range and not the Positive right?
Say =1.5 is better than +1.5
 
Fully depends on rpm/load/pressure/pulse width.

My timing varies from -6° to +20°

The sample files show that as well.
 
Yeah i got that but for general thought process given a set RPM of 2000
Is this how it should go by load:
15 -.05
30 +1.0
50 +2.0
70 +5.0
100 +12.0

I know other factors are involvCed but just want to know if timing goes up with load or down at a set rpm?
Can you put a snap shot of your timing on here?
 
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