Software beta testers needed for 'Anteater'

It doesn't read anything. Stays at 0 the entire time.


Sales Manager/ Technical Support @ Firepunk Diesel
Firetruck: It's like, dead and stuff.
2012: It's also dead and stuff
 
OK. Was hoping it might of been the culprit behind me not being able to get it tuned in very good... Guess it's still user error ! Lol. Back to the drawing board...
 
Any recommendations ? Ive tried TV from stock function to static @ 60,70,80,90,100% and Gov modifier from 35,45,55,65,75... I can get good shifts under light throttle, or heavy throttle, but not both. All mods in Sig, plus my valve body is ATS racing valve body, 4.10 gears, 35" tires...
 
If only it worked with a wrench, dial indicator and some feeler gauges... I'd be set ! Lol !
 
Also, are you toying with different maps on each of your tunes?



Sent from my XT1053 using Tapatalk
 
Alright, I'll have one of these coming as soon as everyone gets back from UCC.
 
QMFB said:
Any recommendations ? Ive tried TV from stock function to static @ 60,70,80,90,100% and Gov modifier from 35,45,55,65,75... I can get good shifts under light throttle, or heavy throttle, but not both. All mods in Sig, plus my valve body is ATS racing valve body, 4.10 gears, 35" tires...
Click to expand...



Here's the best way to put this....

By having your tv cable adjustment static at say 80%, what you're doing is making your mainline pressure think you are at 80% throttle. Generally, somewhere around 70-75% throttle mainline is at a point where it is doing as much pressure as what the valve body will let it do.

By doing this, the clutches are applying with a greater force and much, much quicker because of the higher pressure. This is what is causing you firmer than normal shifts. Also by doing this, you have much greater holding power in the transmission.

If you move the tv cable looser, you'll get a softer more appealing shift for daily driving but you'll also cause your transmission to burn up clutches.

Unfortunately with the anteater, this is the one con to all the pros. You have to live with firm shifts or suffer the consequences.
 
QMFB said:
Any recommendations ? Ive tried TV from stock function to static @ 60,70,80,90,100% and Gov modifier from 35,45,55,65,75... I can get good shifts under light throttle, or heavy throttle, but not both. All mods in Sig, plus my valve body is ATS racing valve body, 4.10 gears, 35" tires...
Click to expand...
Email your file to biggy238 @ Gmail.Com (remove the spaces) and I will send you the file I think might get you close asap. I'm having computer difficulty atm

Sent from my XT1053 using Tapatalk
 
pac_master_7 said:
Here's the best way to put this....

By having your tv cable adjustment static at say 80%, what you're doing is making your mainline pressure think you are at 80% throttle. Generally, somewhere around 70-75% throttle mainline is at a point where it is doing as much pressure as what the valve body will let it do.

By doing this, the clutches are applying with a greater force and much, much quicker because of the higher pressure. This is what is causing you firmer than normal shifts. Also by doing this, you have much greater holding power in the transmission.

If you move the tv cable looser, you'll get a softer more appealing shift for daily driving but you'll also cause your transmission to burn up clutches.

Unfortunately with the anteater, this is the one con to all the pros. You have to live with firm shifts or suffer the consequences.
Click to expand...

Yeah so far it seems to be at its best with TV set around 75-80% or so. Didn't want to even test below 60% because of potential damage to my trans. And it does not like 100% at all ! Jumped gears like crazy...problem is, at say 70-100% Throttle, there is a dead time between shifts. Like a brief drop to neutral... And with higher TV% and higher Gov mod pressure, upper throttle shifting is quicker, but will not downshift, has a hard time going into overdrive, and light throttle shifting becomes erratic...
 
Biggy, I will send that file this evening after work. Thank you... But it's the files that came on memory stick with Anteater. Been trying to get TUNE 1 going first, because it ran better than 2 or 3.
 
Kick Start said:
Can you explain this to me?
Click to expand...
It doesn't stay at zero unless the minimum line temp has been met and the sensor isn't broken. I mislabeled the "Trans Cold Modifier" as "Trans Temp" in the dashboard app. I have resolved that in the next build of the software. The value shown will move from 0-7 and is the modifier for cold weather applications.

If the mainline temp is >54F, it will show 0 AKA leave the line pressure alone. If it's from 53F to -49F, it will show 1-6 respectively.

If the temp sender is broken or missing, it will show 7. If this is the case, it will be almost impossible to get it to shift out of 1st gear when it's <50F.
 
joefarmer said:
It doesn't stay at zero unless the minimum line temp has been met and the sensor isn't broken. I mislabeled the "Trans Cold Modifier" as "Trans Temp" in the dashboard app. I have resolved that in the next build of the software. The value shown will move from 0-7 and is the modifier for cold weather applications.

If the mainline temp is >54F, it will show 0 AKA leave the line pressure alone. If it's from 53F to -49F, it will show 1-6 respectively.

If the temp sender is broken or missing, it will show 7. If this is the case, it will be almost impossible to get it to shift out of 1st gear when it's <50F.
Click to expand...

Well that explains why mine always says 0... I live in South Texas
 
How does one get rid of the unlock down shift and re lock when there is no throttle input?
 
Email sent your way Biggy. Thank you sir !
 
Ok as this has had time to work bugs out and such... I'm curious, is this something that is ok to use on a say completely stock truck and trans??
 
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