SSR New Release Info and Results Thread...

so what part is wrong then ? the 64? what should it be? a 62 65 12? thats an easy swap, what kind of assurance can ya give me before I spend another 1500 on something that might not work? anyone have data logging in real time so I can see what is truly going on when it happens? should I start throwing sensors at it to see if it is a bad iat? tps? cps? rps? fca's?
 
I am just trying to help yah fella.. I got no rattles with any of the 10 trucks I have tunned and built for people.. Do what you want with it but blaming software is retarded
 
JasonCzerak said:
That's my point..... DA is going lower, there for easier to spool. right? But you guys tell me it's cuz I'm not spooling fast enough, there for rattling. But when the temperature goes higher, more DA, the rattling and all that goes away and performance is stellar!
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bump.
 
Jason Im not sure what you got going with temps changes.. Your probablem is just too large of sticks for your current charger setup. Im trying to help you spend time in the right direction vs fightin software witch its not
 
I would say your over fueling it.Your running modded twin cps? and what size nozzle? I dont want a HP rating of the injector. pressure duration and others can effect a hp rated nozzle. I have said it many times if the trucks going to be street driven dont use anything larger than a 60mm for a High pressure unit.
 
arson 3 is on the bottom, and a 6.7 pump on top, I gotta get the lpm rating on the nozzles again, I keep forgetting what they tell me. I had considered putting the stock fca on the arson 3 pump for better metering of fuel down low, just haven't had enough folks in the know tell me it would help.
 
Id replace it with a stocker.. sell it to someone twins will supply enough fuel for 1300hp. Get the hole size of the nozzle. LPM dont really help much either. Same thing applies to that rating. Pressure duration yaddy yaddy yaddy
 
WickedCumminsCO said:
Jason Im not sure what you got going with temps changes.. Your probablem is just too large of sticks for your current charger setup. Im trying to help you spend time in the right direction vs fightin software witch its not
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i suppose... for the smarty software.


i disagree with your assumption that the smarty software is "perfect". The enitre point of software is to fine tune hardware. It happens in IT all the time. It's validated by EFILive for these trucks that it is possible to run an even less smarty friendly setup.

mine is close enough. Ill get that s06-pod box in a week-ish to validate my number guessing.
 
Would it also be smartys fault if I couldn't spool a 595 with stock sticks and cp3? Duh...

I explained the reason your truck runs better in warm weather 10 or 20 pages ago...you should start listening to people who have trucks that work....not the few that don't.
 
got a reply from my builder, just asked also about hole size.
:

yes the rating is confusing. Flow is 110% over stock. My flow meter is calibrated differently than DDP and II so my flow numbers would need to be corrected to be an apples to apples comparison. I think they were mid 60's on my bench, which would be closer to low 70's by DDP standards. It was a while ago and I did not make a note of it.

not sure whats been done with the return line, got a suggestion for what to use, how to do it??
 
110% over stock are too big for your chargers. 100s with my 80mm was to big imo. the 80 overs where alot better

Hey cquest I acutally ran stockers on my s595 setup with the ssr and it spooled and ran just as well.. Just lacked WOT power! Just stating this cause I was shocked never thought stock injectors would work so well!

Jason it makes no sense to run wrong parts then attempt to tune it out!
 
cquestad said:
Would it also be smartys fault if I couldn't spool a 595 with stock sticks and cp3? Duh...

I explained the reason your truck runs better in warm weather 10 or 20 pages ago...you should start listening to people who have trucks that work....not the few that don't.
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its a pain to search on these phone, i need to re-read that post later on the temp aspect.

However, theres much contradiction from "experts" its insane. To big/small of a turbo. one guy saying its DA, but the rattles worse as its cooler??? lol. others saying injector size has nothing to do with it. Theres more if i take the time to remind my self.

what i'd love to see is a 3rd set of numbers . what i have now i bet is perfect for mid to high, its just getting to that mid range. cut the ll numbers in half for the first 3rd of the rpm range would be tits.

What would be the holly grail is to be cruising at 65 in OD locked , flip OD off and go WOT with out smoke or rattle or "rolling into it".

We know it can be done with just about any hardware combo and a huge injector has to fuel a 66 to be super fast spool with the right cells adjusted however they need to be adjusted.

Example. plain old reving the motor in park. stock software, just may be a little black poof with 100% overs. load "any" box software, huge clouds of soot. mis-matched parts? If you say yes, you're an idiot IMHO. fuk, stock 06 of a friend of mine would soot more with the current TNT-r with stock sticks free reving! (#7 runs well tho!)
 
So you don't have to search...what table does the ecm switch too in colder weather/more dense air condition? What would happen if you allready had just a little too much timing in warmer conditions prior to that?

You just can't ignore the burn rate or the net timing effect of certain types of injectors...and how bad it can be skewed by sw changes.
 
So you need more timing when its colder? i thought i read here that you need less timing because colder/more dense air burns faster the hotter air.

Or wait, too much fuel sounds like a better reason for rattles since the same amount of fuel burns more efficiently, but too much when colder resulting in more cylinder pressure/noise

LLD of 6 is sweet to putz around with to be honest. but it will never make any useable wot mid rpm power.

hmm. i suppose i should stair at these tables for a while. specificly the ones with cold coolant (zero rattle issues) vs warm cool (tempature dependent)

thanks.
 
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I get it now.. Some people know it all.. Hence why I cant be beat in the big CO in a full body daily driver tow truck! $hit I think i am gonna order some 300% overs and get me some rattle maybe put a 88 over a 118 and then start b itcching my tunner cant fix it! Maybe add a third CP3 and get the biggest ones I can get! Stupid damn tunner...

Jason i read in one of your TNT threads about the rattle with it.. Lol You think its all the tunners? i can dig it up if you want me too
 
wicked, the older tnt tunes weird things occoured. if i put tm on 3 or 4, give it minimal throttle, it would just hang for 30+ seconds! single pump, back when i swapped stock tips for 90's and a 62. i've always thought theres more to it then mis matched parts. hence swapping sensors and stuff now.

BUT. marco tuned out the rail hang, allowed the same truck to be drivable. just a handful of more improvment left, like off boost smoke.
 
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