SSR New Release Info and Results Thread...

Update: moving the HLD to 30 from 25 was NOTICEABLY more powerful at WOT. I'm cautiously optimistic for the brush pull tomorrow.
 
He's talking about the exhaust side...

We chatted on the phone! (thanks!). i'm going to error on the side of drivability and go with the 64/65 on the secondary and the 83 primary. should be enough to get started. Should get close to 900.
 
Update: moving the HLD to 30 from 25 was NOTICEABLY more powerful at WOT. I'm cautiously optimistic for the brush pull tomorrow.

I think this is a great example of the issues a bunch of people are having tuning.

How did you get to HLD 30 in the first place? You should have never made it past 27 or 28 before you noticed no additional power and backed it down to find that sweet spot.

If you don't use a methodical approach...your just taking stabs in the dark.
Start low...and move up.
 
I think this is a great example of the issues a bunch of people are having tuning.

How did you get to HLD 30 in the first place? You should have never made it past 27 or 28 before you noticed no additional power and backed it down to find that sweet spot.

If you don't use a methodical approach...your just taking stabs in the dark.
Start low...and move up.

Looks like he did start low and move up.
 
Well didn't I just read that backasswards....whoops. Carry on with the regular programming now. Lol
 
Well my latesr dart hit well i think

llt 28
hlt 34
llr 20
hlr 25
Lld 16
hld 16

i suppose i had a bad relief valve most of this time. no issues with the truck doing funny things with the rail over 10!

The big win here is the smoke isnt much above the idle haze.. at 77 degrees temp. it'll be 95 today so we shall see then!


hmmmm MAYBE.. just maybe. I'll drop 1.6/1.7 back on the truck to see if the rail number influenced grid light setting issues pop back up, it did drive smoother and cleaner I suppose.
 
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So I've finally gotten around to beating on the truck just a little with the higher rail pressure numbers on 1.5.. No issues with it getting into a similar limit mode that 1.6 would do (just with out the grid light).

This morning I wound it up in 2nd, locked it up, spun the tires to the tune of 3900rpm grabbed third and away I went. (had to catch a light down this long ass left hand turn lane! LOL). That shortly there after swapping that part I did a non-boost 1st gear 4x4 pull and it was pulling good till 3rd, shifting correctly and not way past any power band for show! Hahaha

So I'm fairly confident I had a relief valve issue that never ended up in a hard/no-start situation.

So, here's my game plan I'll report on. Tuned in the tntr #7 settings. LLT 15 HLT 33, LLR 50, HLR 50, LLD 30, HLD 15. On the high end is just about exactly what I'd run for my other tunes with exception of the pressure. (HLT 34, HLR 20, HLD 16). So I'm basically flipping the LL a 180, number wise. This did drive very well, if you didn't "floor it", but before with the bad RV would easily put the truck into limp mode on any shift locked.

If the above drives well, I'll load up 1.6b and go back to where I was with that software. basically starting with the same TNT #7 numbers, and I'm fairly sure I bumped the HL numbers to the high 30's on the timing and low 20's on the duration. Obviously if I get the grid light issue it's back to 1.5.
 
Jason has seen the light!


Glad you are figuring it out!...those were some similar numbers that I had posted over a hundred pages ago...lol. ;)
 
Jason has seen the light!


Glad you are figuring it out!...those were some similar numbers that I had posted over a hundred pages ago...lol. ;)

yeah, but then... it wasn't working... limp modes.... ect, ect,ect. The weird part is that RV not just failing.

The RV failing clued me in basically when it finally "just got worse" with out any software changes. But never a no/hard-start


What did you end up with for 1.5 settings? you never went to 1.6 did you? I still have a surge at very light throttle input at 2300rpm no matter the setting (when I had the tntr #7 set a while back, same thing).

I did like 1.6/1.7's drive ability much better. smoother, just that grid light issue and limp mode. :(

I suppose it's just two weeks before the turbo's come in and it's time to start over, again. so I'm going to keep the changes to a minimum.
 
Bad PRV's seem to be getting more common. I had one go bad on me. Just like you it didn't cause a no start, and you couldn't see it on the rail pressure guage. On the dyno though, you could see the hp curve get "choppy" once the rail pressure came up.

Glad you got it figured out.

Paul
 
Bad PRV's seem to be getting more common. I had one go bad on me. Just like you it didn't cause a no start, and you couldn't see it on the rail pressure guage. On the dyno though, you could see the hp curve get "choppy" once the rail pressure came up.

Glad you got it figured out.

Paul

Exactly, the rail pressure gauge is steady and right on
 
So, lunch time run. Forgot to hit the lockup the one moment I had a good chance for a rolling 1st gear pull. It's amazing how little smoke there is on just decent acceleration. Much faster then traffic accelerations. Obviously it can smoke a ton if you ask it to. It has cleaned up decently despite the temps.

The surge is just insane, just putzing with traffic it's surging. I bet it's the timing that's the problem since they are so far apart now. I'll load 1.6 up for the drive home today with these exact TNTR #7 settings and for from there.
 
So what clued you two in on prv being bad?? paulb and JasonCzerak....

paulb suggested the dyno graph. But the last two times i've been on the dyno I didn't see it. However, I suppose I should look back at the data on smoothing 0, ;-)


For me: From what I understand, when a PRV goes bad, you're dead in the water or the truck runs like crap. Never had that problem. Basically I just stopped screwing with the software and drove that damn thing. :) I always knew I couldn't really go over RP10 or I'd have "issues". so I left it at 10. SEVERAL weekends worth of toying around. SEVERAL WOT 2nd-4th gear locked pulls. Lots of on off on off throttle keep up with the group in traffic on a Saturday night. Then one day, it got into limp mode, repeatedly, with no changes to anything. So, lowered the rail down to 8, and did it again.

I had a spare, swapped it in, ran fine and started upping the rail.

1.5 always needed a shift to trigger the issue.. 1.6 just a roll on WOT run, much more sensitive. I should have some good evidence this evening, for sure this weekend.
 
Well. couple wot highway pulls and a 2nd to 3rd **** with 1.7, no grid light.

i wonder!

power is down tho, bumping everything 10 for the second half of this trip home.

paul, what did you end up with setting wise?
 
spoke to soon. no grid but it fell on its face. hitting 3rd lol.

lowering rail numbers to 20 from 45.
 
haha. ok back to 1.5b. 1.7 drives nice, not one grid light, I did get it to fall on it's face the one time. Couldn't seem to get it to respond like 1.5. played with the HL numbers on a 4th gear 2000rpm roll on and couldn't get the smoke down and boost up. Maybe I need timing numbers over 40 and LLD down around 16/18. I dunno. don't care.

1.5b runs well, expecially with the fixed rail valve. We'll see when the twins are running on 1.7 some other day.

So here's where i'm at to keep with the drama.

HLT 34
HLR 40
HLD 16

on the LL numbers with the reversed numbers the surge was worse at slower speeds so I'll play with timing and durations a little.

LLT 18 - 22
LLR 40
LLD 24-28
 
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