Swole...Again!

Btw...above freezing....cold engine...mine has a white haze for a minute or two...

Below freezing....more.

Below zero....nobody wants to be near my truck for 5 minutes...lol. No grids...never plug it in...still starts fine...but a tone of unburnt diesel making to the pipe.
 
mikmaze said:
you running a capped rail? sounds as if there is a return flow problem....... with the amount of times you have had the valve cover off I would also check out the wires to the injectors under the gasket. who knows. hope for luck ya know ?
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I believe He was running 1 CPRV I setup,(David Correct Me if I am wrong).Running 1 CPRV with dual pumps will work 9 out of 10 times,Its the 1 time is going to cost $$$$,I strongly recommend Swole to run 2 CPRV.

Some history, the 1st singles (valve) for dual Pumps were too loose, this was the 1st valve Swole had,it was modded to the current setting which will work,but its possible for DPs to pump thru it,So this is why its critical to run Dual valves with Dual Pumps.

Example: During pulling event truck snap output shaft RPMs skyrocket with RP both valves open and dump so much fuel it blew the two way in-line lines off.This saved the engine, B/C the last time this happen it took the motor out when he was running capped.
 
I would verify the injectors are not messed up as well. Just changing the nozzles is only part of the testing I would do. Did you guys run the injectors on Jeffs stand with stock nozzles and see how they are operating?

Also consider that the monotherm pistons should be run tighter than stock, not more sloppy. The steel piston does not expand as much or as fast as the stock aluminum one does. You may just have some blowby and low compression from having a bore that is too large for the pistons? ONce it gets up to temp and the steel expands some, it runs better right?

Finally, if you can get an accurate compression reading on each cylinder, do that. A quick tell-tale for a good compression on each cylinder without using a gauge is to use a scope. Scope the amperage required during cranking. It will show more amperage for the tight cylinders and less for the weaker ones. Use a two channel and peg the TDC indicator to get an idea of which hole is low by following the firing order. I can detect a weak hole is a matter of seconds with my scope. You dont even have to pull the stix for this test.
 
Soup Nazi said:
I would verify the injectors are not messed up as well. Just changing the nozzles is only part of the testing I would do. Did you guys run the injectors on Jeffs stand with stock nozzles and see how they are operating?


April said to send you the whole injectors again. We did Not test them again when I swapped the tips this time..

Jeff tested them before they were sent to you back when / after I pulled them from the split. Then you tested them then.

I can send them again if you like, just to make sure...


Also consider that the monotherm pistons should be run tighter than stock, not more sloppy. The steel piston does not expand as much or as fast as the stock aluminum one does. You may just have some blowby and low compression from having a bore that is too large for the pistons? ONce it gets up to temp and the steel expands some, it runs better right?

Yes Sir. Its not quiet as tight as Eric wanted but he said we should be good. The curious thing is that it didn't start the weird sputtering at cold start / driving until after that tip split...

I guess it could have been a conisidence.

Yes, when it finally hit opp. temps it seems to run decent.... But I've got crank case pressure that seems to be getting worse... Seems I'm noticing a few more oil leaks / very small spots on my driveway... Never leaked in the begining...

Finally, if you can get an accurate compression reading on each cylinder, do that. A quick tell-tale for a good compression on each cylinder without using a gauge is to use a scope. Scope the amperage required during cranking. It will show more amperage for the tight cylinders and less for the weaker ones. Use a two channel and peg the TDC indicator to get an idea of which hole is low by following the firing order. I can detect a weak hole is a matter of seconds with my scope. You dont even have to pull the stix for this test.


Don't think Jeff has a "Scope".
I may just have to do a reg. comp. test before we tear it down.
Click to expand...


......
 
TCDiesel said:
I believe He was running 1 CPRV I setup,(David Correct Me if I am wrong).Running 1 CPRV with dual pumps will work 9 out of 10 times,Its the 1 time is going to cost $$$$,I strongly recommend Swole to run 2 CPRV.

Some history, the 1st singles (valve) for dual Pumps were too loose, this was the 1st valve Swole had,it was modded to the current setting which will work,but its possible for DPs to pump thru it,So this is why its critical to run Dual valves with Dual Pumps.

Example: During pulling event truck snap output shaft RPMs skyrocket with RP both valves open and dump so much fuel it blew the two way in-line lines off.This saved the engine, B/C the last time this happen it took the motor out when he was running capped.
Click to expand...

Sorry I missed your call earlier Todd... On duty and was on a fairly serious call...

I'll hit you up when I can...

I know I need your twin set up on my rail...

Thanks
 
To anyone::::


If my block is still good but the bore is slightly too big for what Mahle wants on these Monotherms, Can I run those "Gap-less" Rings to help the performance of these pistons??

I'll pose this to Eric as well when I can

Just wanted thoughts?
 
I stay away from gap-less in the Cummins street engine. I think I was the first guy to try them and the results were not stellar.

Large piston to wall clearance will increase blow-by and can cause the gaskets to start leaking
 
I agree, with a keystone top ring they really rely on gas pressure to seal, or to press out on the ring.

With out the gap on the second ring to bleed some gas, the top ring seal can flutter.

Ideally you pick a gap that come really close to butting up but DOES NOT!


If you have a bore that is beyond spec, the block would need to be machined to accept a liner, and in the same time a clean up cut to the deck would be required to flush up the liner to the deck.
 
Got me thinking now..

If its a broken ring and the block is still within or can be within spec, I gues I can use it..

Know nothing of Sleeving Blocks.... Reliable???
 
Maybe the broken tip just scored the cylinder wall and thats causing your blow by. Shouldn't be any issue with press-in sleeves.
 
I wouldn't think twice about a sleeve in a stock application, but as you raise the power slider, I duno.....I've heard of those getting away with it, and more so only doing one hole.

I've seen a block split that had a liner in every hole a while back, this was a 100lb+boosted app.
 
Big Swole said:
To anyone::::


If my block is still good but the bore is slightly too big for what Mahle wants on these Monotherms, Can I run those "Gap-less" Rings to help the performance of these pistons??

I'll pose this to Eric as well when I can

Just wanted thoughts?
Click to expand...

David,

You can't take up an oversized bore with rings.

As Joe stated, your options would be to sleeve it or a new block. If its just one or two holes, sleeving is the best bet. It runs about $150 a hole. I have one sleeved hole in my engine.

Like Don said, gapless rings are not good for street applications.

Here is the problem that I believe I talked with you about in NC and that alot of people just don't comprehend...

You, and a large majority of people, for some reason are trying to have 800+ hp daily drivers :confused: While a cool idea...it is just not practical for a number of reasons. First, IT'S DANGEROUS!!! Second, Alot of typical stock parts just don't hold up to the streeses causing catastrophic expensive failures or the need to tear them down for preventive maintanance often. Or, race specific parts designed for those kind of levels, do not last or work well under the stresses of daily driving. So basically, if those levels are desired for a daily driver, you better be resigned to tearing the engine down at least once a year if not more. But for some reason, everyone thinks they can basically build race engines that are going to last 100k mi :doh:

Just my $.02
 
Big Swole said:
To anyone::::


If my block is still good but the bore is slightly too big for what Mahle wants on these Monotherms, Can I run those "Gap-less" Rings to help the performance of these pistons??

I'll pose this to Eric as well when I can

Just wanted thoughts?
Click to expand...

Why should you have to use different rings to better suit a piston?

Gap-less rings?......Waste of your money and time!
 
^^^^^^ gregs getting scared your gonna wreck more motors then him David - lol


i can understand about the high hp daily drivers--- but i have 25,000+ on mine....... but david imho doesnt have enough miles on the motor to worry about motor wear....

i like the possible hydro lock idea causing a rod or ring issue
 
Dockboy said:
David,

You can't take up an oversized bore with rings.

As Joe stated, your options would be to sleeve it or a new block. If its just one or two holes, sleeving is the best bet. It runs about $150 a hole. I have one sleeved hole in my engine.

Like Don said, gapless rings are not good for street applications.

Here is the problem that I believe I talked with you about in NC and that alot of people just don't comprehend...

You, and a large majority of people, for some reason are trying to have 800+ hp daily drivers :confused: While a cool idea...it is just not practical for a number of reasons. First, IT'S DANGEROUS!!! Second, Alot of typical stock parts just don't hold up to the streeses causing catastrophic expensive failures or the need to tear them down for preventive maintanance often. Or, race specific parts designed for those kind of levels, do not last or work well under the stresses of daily driving. So basically, if those levels are desired for a daily driver, you better be resigned to tearing the engine down at least once a year if not more. But for some reason, everyone thinks they can basically build race engines that are going to last 100k mi :doh:

Just my $.02
Click to expand...

That is the most intelligent statement of 2010!!!! :bow:
 
and i have to disagree about the 800 hp being dangerous on the street..... just because my truck will make the number doesnt mean i need to drive it like a 800 hp truck on the street

ive seen more idiots in 100hp civic and vw's doing stupid/dangerous crap on the streets
 
jsf350 said:
and i have to disagree about the 800 hp being dangerous on the street..... just because my truck will make the number doesnt mean i need to drive it like a 800 hp truck on the street

ive seen more idiots in 100hp civic and vw's doing stupid/dangerous crap on the streets
Click to expand...

Here is the problem with your logic Joel...

Yes its possible to turn it down to say 500 hp. The problem is, the rigors of daily driving is VERY stressfull on an engine. Sometimes much more stressful than a race only application. The stock parts are over engineered with a margin of safety to handle those daily driving abuses at the stock hp levels. Now you are running them at or above those safety margins constantly. Then, turn it up to max one time to many and...BOOM!

Personally, while my race truck is fun to drive periodically on the street, it is not enjoyable to drive alot. I guess you could chaulk that up to my age. It is difficult to drive comfortably and "mindlessly" without smoking out intersections or breaking the tires loose constantly. I get in my stock F350 and don't have to worry about a thing. But that is just me.
 
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greg ... next year u will take my truck for a drive (if its still.... running!!!) lol

it is the easiest 800 hp truck to drive.... i dont turn it down (except when towing and thats from 99% to 80% ...sm#9)

-Am i driving around on a motor that could let go? Yes
-Could a injector fail on my stock truck as well and scatter it? Yes
-Can David break an anvil by being around it and making turbo sounds?................... (answer) lol
 
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I fully expect to grenade mine one day....again. It's the nature of the game.
 
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