Tech help swapping in 12valve

2001shrtbedcmns said:
yea...that's a 98-2000ish...I say this because of the fuel filter...
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Right on the money. It is out of a '99. I was going to get the one from the '02, but during the week he swapped the '02 into the '99 flatbed and gave me the '99 motor with more miles.

Free is free.
 
CSnyder said:
This project is scaring the crap out of me already and it doesnt even concern me. The problems I see are....

1) It is definately a 98 or 99 engine which will most likely have a 53 block. Check both sides of the block near the front right above the oil pan. 53 Blocks are not a good choice for a swap project as they tend to crack.
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It is a 53 block. I was unaware of any downfalls to them, but I am certain it is still more durable than my 4.6L with 250k. I saw this motor running in the truck less that 3 weeks ago at my shop.

2) Fram filter on it so the previous owner doesnt know the first thing about Cummins engines or he just didnt give a rats arse. Fram filters are known for seperating inside and then the pieces get into the piston cooling nozzles and plug them until they melt a piston or crack a ring from lack of lubrication.
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Yeah, Fram sucks...hopefully no damage has been done, and rest assured that another will not take its place.

3) The amount of oil on that engine is crazy and I would NEVER install it without putting a pan gasket, front main, rear main, and rebuild the vac/power steering box.
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Oil pan gasket is going to be replaced. It has a brand new rear main. I have no idea about the front main or vac/power steering box. I didnt even know they were attached until I got it.

4) Turbo looks aweful golden on the topside also. I would make sure to check shaft play and do an oil analysis on the engine before you spend tons of money and time on that project. I would say that engine looks like it was in a well used truck.
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How much play should the shaft have? Any at all means it is toast? As for the oil analysis, that is not going to happen....mainly because I dont want or plan to spend a ton of money on it. If it runs like it did a few weeks ago, I am plenty happy just to get it running in stock form (power wise). If it needs a rebuild down the road, or even a new block, I am much happier dealing with this motor than rebuilding a 4.6L.

Dont mean to scare you but just want you to be aware of what your up against. I think its awesome you want a Cummins in your Ford!

Chris
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A little play is normal and expected, just take a good look at the exhaust housing for signs of oil, so long as the seals are good you should be OK. Worse comes to worse you can pick up an HX 35 for 3-400.

The oil leak on the vac pump is really common, the seal to fix it is under $10 IIRC, you can reuse the O-rings.
 
Free is free! I wouldnt worry about any issues with it for that cost. 4.6's suck for sure! My number is 563-546-7772 if you need any advice or have questions on your project. Always happy to help where I can.

Chris
 
So i slept in, but still got started around noon or so.

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Yeah, trying to do the whole swap with the hood on. Why not? LOL


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More pictures at my build thread on pirate.


I am going to be calling a few of you here soon to figure out how to get the fuel to the motor.
 
I got nothing done last night.

I had some free time today, so I replaced the oil pan gasket and painted the pan, took apart the intake pipe and grid heater, and installed a Purolator oil filter (ill go with something different after 1000miles). I also took off the flywheel and auto tranny adapter and loc-tited those on.

Cory found a remanufactured tag on the motor today, so I dont know how many miles are on the rebuild, but looking at the piston walls from the underside looked gorgeous (if you can even tell anything from there). Crankshaft also looked clean with no scoring or discoloring whatsoever.

I made my templates for the motor mounts (oh, and found out that the mounts on the block are offset left/right, and up/down). It took a little more time, but it looks like it will be sitting straight in there with good clearance. The powersteering box is going to be REAL close to the powersteering pump though.

I have to wait to cut and weld on the new motor mounts until I get the tranny here, to make sure I am not setting it too close to the firewall. If that comes tonight as promised, I could also be welding up the motor mounts tonight. I wont be able to sit the motor down until one of the neighboring shops can lend me their forklift for a few hours.

Then onto the tranny mount. Simple stuff. I think I am going to be running a FASS 150 fuel pump with its own suction hose (thanks Denny for the quick tech-help). I will leave my factory pump in place, but only use the sending unit to get the fuel level.
 
Guess what


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the motor is in :thankyou2:



Though, If anyone has a stock exhaust manifold, PLEASE let me know, I found a crack! :rockwoot:
 
Jess@FarmboyFab said:
Can I run two batteries in a series (one connected to the other) without issue?
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If you connect them in "series" (that is one positive to the next negative) you'll end up with 24 V like a duece-n-a-half. You don't want that. You need to do them in parallel (both hots together, both negatives together).

If you need a diagram, I can probably find one.
 
I meant hots connected to hots, cold to cold. I am just awful at electrical, and obviously the terminology.

I just needed to make sure I could just hook one of them up to the alternator/starter, and just piggyback the other. They will probably go behind my seats in the cab.
 
Roger. Just wanted to make sure you didn't fry something! :D If you need any help with electrical, let me know. You'll be fine to piggy back the other battery anywhere.
 
Jesse - I got a brand new ATS 3 piece manifold if you want to buy it. Won't crack (ever) like the stocker.

Jess@FarmboyFab said:
Can I run two batteries in a series (one connected to the other) without issue?
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If are going to put a battery INSIDE the cab, make sure it's a sealed unit. Battery vapors...well, depending on who you are....may advised to inhale while driving.
 
DrSpeed said:
Jesse - I got a brand new ATS 3 piece manifold if you want to buy it. Won't crack (ever) like the stocker.
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Ring ring ring...


If are going to put a battery INSIDE the cab, make sure it's a sealed unit. Battery vapors...well, depending on who you are....may advised to inhale while driving.
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More incentive :woohoo:
 
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