Tech help swapping in 12valve

DrSpeed said:
Vulcan turbo components, FireBall injectors, DrawStraw™, Big Line Kits, FASS, Quadzilla, Edge,AirDog, DTT Trans, ISSPRO, HTT Turbo, AFE, Veg pumps, metric adapters, fittings, silicone boot kits, brackets, harnesses, AFE, Diamond Eye exhaust, Parker fuel line, Edge, installation, pop testing, o-ringing.
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Thanks Denny. The FASS draw tube is already on the way, just had to come from the manufacturer.

While we are on that topic though, the FASS i receiieved was not the style Im used to with the two filters. This one is a small black pump with a tiny detached filter that fits in the palm of my hand. Still good to go? The gold looking canister on the side of the block, is that a factory filter?
 
Jess@FarmboyFab said:
Thanks Denny. The FASS draw tube is already on the way, just had to come from the manufacturer.

While we are on that topic though, the FASS i receiieved was not the style Im used to with the two filters. This one is a small black pump with a tiny detached filter that fits in the palm of my hand. Still good to go? The gold looking canister on the side of the block, is that a factory filter?
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So it's not this one here?

1501501008.jpg
 
negative


HPFP150-1003.jpg



Will this thing work, or should I be sending it back and getting another? I think it was my screw up with the part number on the distributors website.
 
What you have there is the factory replacement style pump FASS has recently offered. It goes in place of the factory pump. I think you would be better off with the "original" style that will mount to the frame rail in front of the tank.

An alternate idea would be to just mount that pump to the frame and use the factory filter setup, matter of fact, with the chances of your truck seeing a mudhole just more than a bit, that's what I would do. The larger units are known to hang down below the body of the truck.
 
Im sure he can creat something to protect the larger syle pump from getting hung up/damaged.

What kind of power are you trying to get out of this motor? Gonna leave it stock?
 
Billysgoat said:
What you have there is the factory replacement style pump FASS has recently offered. It goes in place of the factory pump. I think you would be better off with the "original" style that will mount to the frame rail in front of the tank.

An alternate idea would be to just mount that pump to the frame and use the factory filter setup, matter of fact, with the chances of your truck seeing a mudhole just more than a bit, that's what I would do. The larger units are known to hang down below the body of the truck.
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The one in the picture looks more like a HPFP. The direct replacement pumps have a different pump body I believe, they look more like this:
fass_ddrp.jpg


I agree though that sending it back and getting a system would be better. Its soo nice to have the filters out of a cramped engine bay. If you don't like the big filters go with the smaller 95 series.
 
It is the 150gph unit...not the stock replacement; exactly like the one i pictured.

I think PN# is ending in 1003...dont have time to check now though.
 
HPFP 150-1003

It doesnt have the filters associated with it, just the pump.
 
So i guess im using my stock filter.

Anyways, got the tranny and t-case on...should finish the tranny mount today.
 
Still nothing much more really done. Need to finish the tranny crossmember tomorrow, and then get started on wiring, fuel system, radiator and intercooler.

I do have a couple progress pics though:

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I guess I need to have someone move this thread to 94-98.5 12valves.

Tranny crossmember is in, and as sexy as ever.


I havent done anything else though...because I was offered a 12valve that I have witnessed running fine. 400k miles is a moderate turnoff, but this motor is creeping up on that anyways. Sucks that I put a lot of time into cleaning this 24valve, and new gaskets and such, but it will even out with the P-pump and easy wiring of the 12valve.

We are swapping the motors tomorrow night, and probably through the weekend. This will really accelerate the completion of the swap.
 
Oh yea, I'll be glad to know one of the most B.A. F150's in florida is running the right power now. :D
 
So I need to pull the timing gear cover, pull out the crankshaft seal, and make a tiny egg shaped washer to overlap the pin?

If the pin protrudes, im not seeing how this washer sits flush?

Can I just ditch the pin and carefully line it up?

I probably would have to see it to understand



BINGO
bad_cummins_001.jpg


Looks like the pin is flush

MVC-003r.jpg




Easy enough. Thanks for the tip. Much better to do this with the motor out. Calling to get the timing gear cover gasket and front main seal now.
 
Yep...much easier with the engine out. Just the little things man....lol
 
right on bro.. i just read the whole thread and your building yourself one hell of a toy.. i will be watching this thread giving all the positive input i can give you
 
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