Tech help swapping in 12valve

Ok, the 12valve is on the way here now, and it turns out it has a 2wd transmission on it.

Will the 99 24valve tranny work with the limited electronics on the 12v?

Will the 2wd transmission work (is there an interchangable tailhousing section to swap over)?


What are my options? I want to stick with the 12valve bad enough that I will run the 2wd transmission for awhile if I have to.
 
You will have to swap the output shafts and tail housings to convert the 2wd trans to a 4wd trans. Should be no problem for you.

You can put the 24-valve rods/pistons in the 12-valve block, along with the 24-valve head and some custom injector lines and have a bad ass P-pumped 24-valve engine. Easily done down the road if you just want to get it running now.

Tobin
 
Tobin said:
You will have to swap the output shafts and tail housings to convert the 2wd trans to a 4wd trans. Should be no problem for you.

You can put the 24-valve rods/pistons in the 12-valve block, along with the 24-valve head and some custom injector lines and have a bad ass P-pumped 24-valve engine. Easily done down the road if you just want to get it running now.

Tobin
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Time and money are of the most importance right now...however that sounds really appealing. This 24valve will no longer be mine after the 12valve goes in its place, however he may be willing to let me swap those parts; being he has no real use for the motor other than sell it, or put it in a truck to sell. The 12valve heads and pistons, etc. will work on the 24valve I take it?

I dont really want to have to buy studs right now...and if I did it, it would not be half-assed.

Im setting it up so the cab will be about as easy to lift off the frame as the bed is...so this should be very easy future modifications. :rockwoot:

Thanks for the help on the tranny. Ill be working on that tonight.
 
What else would you guys take off the 24valve and swap over? Turbo, exhaust manifold? Anything?

It already has a single wire chevy alternator.

I have it in the first bay right now...so ill be tearing this other truck down for a bit.
 
Jess@FarmboyFab said:
Time and money are of the most importance right now...however that sounds really appealing. This 24valve will no longer be mine after the 12valve goes in its place, however he may be willing to let me swap those parts; being he has no real use for the motor other than sell it, or put it in a truck to sell. The 12valve heads and pistons, etc. will work on the 24valve I take it?

I dont really want to have to buy studs right now...and if I did it, it would not be half-assed.

Im setting it up so the cab will be about as easy to lift off the frame as the bed is...so this should be very easy future modifications. :rockwoot:

Thanks for the help on the tranny. Ill be working on that tonight.
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really, I wouldn't worry about taking a thing off the 24 valve. What most people do is put the injection pump off the 12 valve onto a 24 valve motor when the electronically controlled vp44 gives out/or for performance applications. For what you're doing, I doubt you'll ever outgrow the airflow abilities of the 12 valve head.
 
2001shrtbedcmns said:
really, I wouldn't worry about taking a thing off the 24 valve. What most people do is put the injection pump off the 12 valve onto a 24 valve motor when the electronically controlled vp44 gives out/or for performance applications. For what you're doing, I doubt you'll ever outgrow the airflow abilities of the 12 valve head.
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Well hell, why dont I just swap the injection pumps over if thats the only real difference. I didnt even know that was an option...I thought I had to use the conversion kit.

I just spent the last few hours drenching myself in all sorts of oils and fluids, and still cant get the 12valve out. I cant see what it is hung up on. we have the oil pan off, tranny disconnected, everything else disconnected, and it seems to be binding on the cab.

Pain in the ass. I just stripped down and took a shower with a waterhose in front of my shop.
 
Jess@FarmboyFab said:
Well hell, why dont I just swap the injection pumps over if thats the only real difference. I didnt even know that was an option...I thought I had to use the conversion kit.
Click to expand...

The kits are only needed if you can't get your hands on a 12v to rob parts off of, or go searching for individual parts. With what you have, you'd only need the conversion lines to complete the conversion. But really, I'd stick with the 12v stuff anyway. Easier when working on the injectors, less leak points in the high pressure side, less parts in the valve train, valve springs are easier to change, etc. But p-pumped 24v's aren't terribly common yet (getting there though), be one more unique item on that truck.
 
Ill be spending some time today trying to get that motor out still, after I shoot some traction bars out.
 
Any how-to's on shaving the fuel plate?

Got the motor out finally yesterday, did the dowel pin reinforcement, and will be putting in a new rear main and front crank seal today. Then I would like to shave the fuel plate and drop the motor in my truck.
 
Still cant find much on shaving the fuel plate online...as odd as it seems. I have come across all kinds of talk about it, but no real how-to's.


So, I put the motor in with the fuel plate as it is. Bolted the tailshaft housing to the new tranny (output shafts were the same), and put it on, as well as the t-case.

I dropped the torque convertor on my knee, from the motor as high up as it is, to the ground :doh: Glad my little guy doesnt hang that low :badidea:

The radiator has about .5" clearance of the pulleys. VERY tight fit. The puller fans I had arent going to work...I will have to buy pushers. I have to wait on the pushers however until I figure out the intercooler.

Give me your ideas. This intercooler is WAY too large to go behind the radiator, and is wider than my frame rails. The molded huge inlet and outlet tubes are of no help either.


Ideas?

5028_591935729296_40508875_35171240_4060704_n.jpg



I also plumbed the pickup tube in my tank, and drained it. The FASS fuel pump fits right in my factory fuel filter holder (convenient). So ill be finishing up the fuel system, and doing some other various wiring tonight.

That leaves for monday, two new batteries behind the seat, finish wiring, intercooler setup, rear drivehaft and putting it back together.
 
The intercooler is supposed to be in front of the radiator anyways.
 
Its not that involved to grind the fuel plate. Clamp it in the mill or put it in the vise and go for it.

You run without an intercooler for a while if you wanted to. I'd rule out water-air for anything other than short runs. You could always go mud-truck style and put the radiator in the bed too.

Check out this and these pictures for some info on the fuel plate http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh274/Dual_K20s/Random_12v/plateprofiles0ny.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh274/Dual_K20s/Random_12v/allplateprofiles.jpg
 
WUnderwood said:
fuel plate:

25501plate_profiles1jpg.jpg
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White Knight said:
Its not that involved to grind the fuel plate. Clamp it in the mill or put it in the vise and go for it.

You run without an intercooler for a while if you wanted to. I'd rule out water-air for anything other than short runs. You could always go mud-truck style and put the radiator in the bed too.

Check out this and these pictures for some info on the fuel plate http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh274/Dual_K20s/Random_12v/plateprofiles0ny.jpg http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh274/Dual_K20s/Random_12v/allplateprofiles.jpg
Click to expand...


Thank you both. Exactly what I needed. After I get all of the kinks worked out and get it on the road, ill get to the tuning.
 
Its not that bad, just need to have a second person squirting a spray bottle into the turbo . . .:doh:
 
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