Truckers, lets see your rigs!

chevota84 said:
Cat rates marine c15's to 850. The k/qsk is crazy expensive to work on, sucked fuel and had counter bore issues, or at least the k's did.

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Supposedly they fixed that not too long after they stopped putting them in the trucks, the bore spacing is stupid close together, from the looks of the picture I saw there is only like .040-.060" between the liner flanges.
 
Chrisd91 said:
. We run 4 C-15s, a 3406E, and a 3406B and they have treated us well. The 3 C-15s in our ag equipment like to crack exhaust manifold studs and de-rate power on us though
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I'm in the process of drilling/tapping a C15 head for 7/16 ARP bolts. Stock cat exhaust studs are too small. ISX with the larger bolts rarely break so I think they're on to something. Using ARP head bolts torqued to 400+, lowered the compression from 18:1 to 16:1, filled the relief cuts in the head and had both the block/head resurfaced. If this mf'er doesn't live there is no hope. Lol
 
SmokinCAT said:
Supposedly they fixed that not too long after they stopped putting them in the trucks, the bore spacing is stupid close together, from the looks of the picture I saw there is only like .040-.060" between the liner flanges.
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I heard the blocks were better on the qsk's. There's a K powered A I've had my eye on for a while so I've been logging info away for future use lol.

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I know where a KTA525 is sitting at out on the ground, it came out of a big bud and needs rebuilt due to burning oil. The guy is asking $7500 for it, I think for that money a built up electronic cat would due much better.
 
jfaulkner said:
I'm in the process of drilling/tapping a C15 head for 7/16 ARP bolts. Stock cat exhaust studs are too small. ISX with the larger bolts rarely break so I think they're on to something. Using ARP head bolts torqued to 400+, lowered the compression from 18:1 to 16:1, filled the relief cuts in the head and had both the block/head resurfaced. If this mf'er doesn't live there is no hope. Lol
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What the hell did that relief cut actually do? Would it do better to use an earlier head that doesn't have them?
 
SmokinCAT said:
What the hell did that relief cut actually do? Would it do better to use an earlier head that doesn't have them?
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You would have better luck finding a unicorn. Especially one without a crack.
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Good conversation and I hate to side track but does anyone know where I can find a carpet kit for my A? Do I have to go to KW?


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jfaulkner said:
I'm in the process of drilling/tapping a C15 head for 7/16 ARP bolts. Stock cat exhaust studs are too small. ISX with the larger bolts rarely break so I think they're on to something. Using ARP head bolts torqued to 400+, lowered the compression from 18:1 to 16:1, filled the relief cuts in the head and had both the block/head resurfaced. If this mf'er doesn't live there is no hope. Lol
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C15 and E motor exhaust manifold studs are the devil... Someone at Cat should have been fired for that massive fail. At least they have the special jig for hacking them out!


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SmokinCAT said:
When did they start doing that to the heads?
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2WS/6NZ maybe. Really doesn't matter since the a-holes cut the grooves in the flat heads when they came in for core.
will24 said:
C15 and E motor exhaust manifold studs are the devil... Someone at Cat should have been fired for that massive fail. At least they have the special jig for hacking them out!


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Have the jig and $100 carbide drill bits for eating them. Break one of those bits off and your buying a head.
 
will24 said:
C15 and E motor exhaust manifold studs are the devil... Someone at Cat should have been fired for that massive fail. At least they have the special jig for hacking them out!


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The worst part of it is that it was done at the inception of the 34xx engines wether it's an inline, v8, or v12 they all have them. The 1693 that cam before them uses three 1/2" studs on each cylinder for the manifold, so I'm not sure where the idea came from to use two 3/8".
 
will24 said:
C15 and E motor exhaust manifold studs are the devil... Someone at Cat should have been fired for that massive fail. At least they have the special jig for hacking them out!


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This is what happens when they use Grade 8 hardware to begin with, then after manny heat cycles the metal becomes tempered and brittle , if they would have started with lower graded bolts/studs it wouldnt happen like that so frequently..

All this was told to me by a guy who workes @ Tacoma Screw Products, I was about to buy gr8 bolts to do a manifold install, he informed me of the above, since then i havent had another break off.. gr5 works just fine , using them on every manifold from 6v-S60, So for whats its worth, they actually put in good bolts LOL, they just didnt think ahead, Nothing outta the Norm there :doh:
 
Be glad you haven't came across an engine that has the stainless studs in it, they are even worse.
 
Oh man, I could see that being real fun !!!

And stainless being so hard to melt, it does retain heat though..
 
Some how my old engine has them in it, I have had one break in the timei have owned it, the others look brand new even after some high temps.
 
One of our machines was low on power and de-rating on us after never having problems in the 6 previous seasons. Found 8 broken studs. The mechanic that worked on it helicoiled them and put it back together. It's probably getting a new head next month so it'll be ready for corn silage this fall
 
I think the 7/16" bolts would be a better choice than junking a head, that would be the same size used on the big cams, and they never have trouble.
 
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