Truckers, lets see your rigs!

I think deciding on electronic/mechanical engine is ignoring the gorilla in the corner. After doing this list of parts swapping was this truck a deal? I mean after you buy and install a different engine/dash/wiring/rear axle was this a project or are you building a truck from scratch?

I have a friend that does this kind of stuff all the time BUT they own the salvage yard.

If you can think of anything you might need give me a heads up and I'll see what they have. They usually stay away from medium duties but get some occasionally.
 
chevota84 said:
10 mpg at 3k a week is 300gal
11 mpg is 272 gal
2$ a gal x 28 is 56$ a week.

So if you figure your time at $50/hr it's less than 2 years.

I really don't see 100 hrs and the difference is probably more than 1 mpg

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Rather expect it to be a PITA than it not be a PITA. over budget and come in under vs under budget and drastically over shoot.


On 100k year 10 to 11mpg is 910 gallons difference
910 gallons at $2.00 is $1820.00 .
100hours at $50.00 hour is $5,000.00
additional 10-15 weekends to get it done at a optimistic 10-15 hours a weekend..

100 hours working 10-15 hours over the 34-68 hours I got on the weekend is along time on the calendar. On top of the normal stuff I have to get done.. and the 60-70 hours a week I work normally..
In the past I've planned on stuff being easy and getting burnt bad.. on more than one project.. right now I'm just going to keep it simple.

8.3 with 3gsk, 62-64mm or comparable size turbo to what zfaylor mentioned while back, new lift pump, maybe a fuel plate adjustment/swap. And go down the road.
 
jfaulkner said:
I think deciding on electronic/mechanical engine is ignoring the gorilla in the corner. After doing this list of parts swapping was this truck a deal? I mean after you buy and install a different engine/dash/wiring/rear axle was this a project or are you building a truck from scratch?

I have a friend that does this kind of stuff all the time BUT they own the salvage yard.

If you can think of anything you might need give me a heads up and I'll see what they have. They usually stay away from medium duties but get some occasionally.
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Yes the gorilla is the rest of the stuff that needs done as well. Of it was just the engine, I'd be more likely to jump for the electrical Engine

Brake lines also need done, they are all 1/4-5/16" line
No flexible hose for caliper movement.. I'm not sure if this is DOT legal or not yet...
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Hydraulic hoses for flexible brake lines
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Has any one ever wired an electronic brake controller up in a class 8 truck? Wondering how to do it.


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chevota84 said:
Same as a pickup, use the brake light switch wire.

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That's what j was thinking, but the two pickups I've put brake controllers in had a harness to plug into. No real wiring.



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RockinRam96 said:
That's what j was thinking, but the two pickups I've put brake controllers in had a harness to plug into. No real wiring.



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Oh. None of my junk ever had that lol. Power in, signal in, ground, and signal out should be it.

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On my pickup the brake, battery and ground wires have all been replaced, all of them had unexplained 2-3V drops with the OEM harness between battery and plug on the truck.. currently I'm less than .5V drop across the trucks wiring

As for larger trucks, as already said tap Into cold side of the brake light switch and done

Edit
One thing to remember big truck brake light wire is usually separate from turns signal where pickup brake runs down both turn signals wires
 
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Malibu don't confuse medium and heavy duty engines with the pickup truck engines. In the big trucks the engines essentially run a standalone ecm and harness. Most of the just need keyswitch power, constant hot, ground on the chassis plug and they will run all day. Some need idle validation pedals, coolant level sensors, and all of that Cummins hot mess.

The best part about an electronic engine is they actually self diagnose fairly decent. Yes you still have to know your way around an engine to figure out what it is telling you. However, it knows when something is wrong. Whether or not the monkey behind the wheel stops or not is another question.

"I have freightliner. I hear squeal like you know last week or something. Today it just stop. My mechanic tell me the turbo is stopped or something. Like it quit working or something you know?"
 
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zfaylor said:
"I have freightliner. I hear squeal like you know last week or something. Today it just stop. My mechanic tell me the turbo is stopped or something. Like it quit working or something you know?"
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Um, this ISM was towed to a friends shop last year because "the turbo went out". I'm not joking. I've seen plenty of misdiagnosis but damn!

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jfaulkner said:
Um, this ISM was towed to a friends shop last year because "the turbo went out". I'm not joking. I've seen plenty of misdiagnosis but damn!

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LOL His buddies probably all told him the loud bang was his turbo letting loose.

My favorite was the guy who had a squeal. Ordered a turbo. Called back saying the new one was junk because this one squealed too. Long story short his manifold had a broken stud. Never needed a turbo LOL I about died.
 
Has anybody used one of the aftermarket aluminum 379 hoods?

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chevota84 said:
Has anybody used one of the aftermarket aluminum 379 hoods?

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Friend has used the aftermarket side panels to rebuild a hood. Said they're identical except they don't come primed. Never seen a full hood.
 
jfaulkner said:
Friend has used the aftermarket side panels to rebuild a hood. Said they're identical except they don't come primed. Never seen a full hood.
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I was looking around and nobody has much to say about them. Complete aluminum hood with glass fenders and a stainless grill is about 2k cheaper than people want for a used stock one.

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chevota84 said:
I was looking around and nobody has much to say about them. Complete aluminum hood with glass fenders and a stainless grill is about 2k cheaper than people want for a used stock one.

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I sent him that link and he said you can get a new hood from Pete for that price.

For reference a Kenworth W900L Metton hood is about $12,000
 
jfaulkner said:
I sent him that link and he said you can get a new hood from Pete for that price.

For reference a Kenworth W900L Metton hood is about $12,000
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Really? I'm finding them for $6500-7000 used. Hmm, guess I need to call pete.

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Gear shift... Transmission..
I've mentioned swapping to a rtlo16913
Apparently there's with common OD gears
RT-direct drive 1:1
RTO- single Od 0.85 or .73:1
RTLO-double OD .83/.73:1
RTOO triple OD .85/.73/.62:1
33" tires(245/70/19.5(OEM)) 3.73(currently(OEM)) with a 70mph cruise is ~2650rpms
OEM trans was a eso66-7B, OD was .74:1
Peak TQ seams to be 13-1400rpm 1600rpm cruise would be ideal for low light loads, while having gears I can drop for tall heavy loads without running 2100+rpm to do 68-70
Seams the RTOO-XX613 have been replaced by the RTLO-XX713A. Haven't been able to find ratio chart for latter trans
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Going to bounce this off of you guys and see what your thoughts are...

Another instructor has a 5EK in an engine rebuild lab. It's just a stand engine with a very basic harness and control box. It just got put back together, ran last semester, everything worked.

This semester they have it back together, it's an unknown if it runs at this point, but I have no communication with ET, and that's my dilemma.

Using 1587/1708 (pins 1 and 7, it's a 40 pin, solid connection to pins, runs to F and G on a 9 pin), known good power to pins 4 and 6, known good ground at pin 5.

I've swapped another known good ECM just to eliminate a variable, no change. I've tried com 2, com 3 and Nexiq boxes, and multiple laptops. What stupid thing am I missing?? Any idea?
 
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