water to air

That I have no idea. I prefer dumping a chit ton of water in it anyway so I have neither.

I still dont see an A/A being very effective at 30mph, fan or not.
 
outlaw99 said:
I am saying a spearco is just as good as a frozen boost 800 dollar kit. Unless you spend money on a good core-s and good pump-s you wont see any benifit over a air to air. Ive seen it on a dyno and look at alot of strong 2.6 and 2.8 trucks that never ran water to air.. its not needed.
Click to expand...

$600 for a/w. $200 for a HUGE pump from Grainger. A regular beer cooler you have laying around and some hose
 
I've seen a truck with spearco snuff out on a track then go to a frozen boost a-w and spin out on the same track and same sled. There might not be more peak HP but it'll allow ya to stay on top of the charger longer.
 
My idea was to run a big name A/A ic and then an A/W ic after. I could put it in place of my driver side battery. Then a 20-25 gallon tank in my truck box for my ice water mix. Then I could tap the ic on the bottom to drain it.

This way I would get the a/w ic advantages at the track and the a/a advantages when it's daily driven.

If the frozen boost ic can hold up to the boost levels I will be at.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk while pulling a 36ft gooseneck and not paying attention to the road.
 
2Tone12V said:
$600 for a/w. $200 for a HUGE pump from Grainger. A regular beer cooler you have laying around and some hose
Click to expand...

Your speaking my language buddy!! Grainger gets tons of money from me yearly! Great company.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk while pulling a 36ft gooseneck and not paying attention to the road.
 
2Tone12V said:
$600 for a/w. $200 for a HUGE pump from Grainger. A regular beer cooler you have laying around and some hose
Click to expand...


Sorry I like my truck to look good. I dont want a beer cooler for my setup. Not that it adds that much price to have something nice built but for a good spearco core you lookn at 1500-2000. then 2 pumps or a huge pump 300-500. your grainger **** is junk. I will stick with my a/a setup and be just fine.. I know alot of top trucks that didnt need it in 2.6 or 2.8. unless he 3.0 or bigge rI would do air to air or try a frozen boost setup and tell me how it works for you.
 
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What Danny is saying parallels some of the very limited data I've taken.

My stock A/A was taking 525+F compressor outlet air down to 150-200F at the manifold, depending on ambient air temps. Your gut may say that an A/A can't be super effective without road-speed air flow, but obviously they do quite a bit with just engine fan flow and the heat-sink ability for short burst stuff like we do.

So Danny is right, if you cheap out and an A/W setup can't get you significantly below 150F, it's hardly worth it, unless you just want one to be like all the other kool kids.
 
outlaw99 said:
Sorry I like my truck to look good. I dont want a beer cooler for my setup. Not that it adds that much price to have something nice built but for a good spearco core you lookn at 1500-2000. then 2 pumps or a huge pump 300-500. your grainger **** is junk. I will stick with my a/a setup and be just fine.. I know alot of top trucks that didnt need it in 2.6 or 2.8. unless he 3.0 or bigge rI would do air to air or try a frozen boost setup and tell me how it works for you.
Click to expand...

Do you have any links to these pumps you speak of??

Other than the issue with max boost pressure issue of the frozen boost kit what makes the spearco a/w cooler better?? Has anyone ran both? Perhaps didn't like the fb kit and went to a spearco kit??

Thanks for all the great info guys


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk while pulling a 36ft gooseneck and not paying attention to the road.
 
outlaw99 said:
Sorry I like my truck to look good. I dont want a beer cooler for my setup. Not that it adds that much price to have something nice built but for a good spearco core you lookn at 1500-2000. then 2 pumps or a huge pump 300-500. your grainger **** is junk. I will stick with my a/a setup and be just fine.. I know alot of top trucks that didnt need it in 2.6 or 2.8. unless he 3.0 or bigge rI would do air to air or try a frozen boost setup and tell me how it works for you.
Click to expand...

HAHA, grainger junk? Well you spend $500 on a pump that is over kill and I will spend $200 on a pump that is WAY over kill and pushes enough water to put out a fire in a house. And 3.0 or bigger is now 2.6 so its needed. Many guys are running 83mm and larger so I don't know why you think it wouldn't be. You stated yourself it is needed 3.0 or bigger.
 
2Tone12V said:
HAHA, grainger junk? Well you spend $500 on a pump that is over kill and I will spend $200 on a pump that is WAY over kill and pushes enough water to put out a fire in a house. And 3.0 or bigger is now 2.6 so its needed. Many guys are running 83mm and larger so I don't know why you think it wouldn't be. You stated yourself it is needed 3.0 or bigger.
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83mm native wheels in 2.6, hmmm interesting. LOL
 
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Well this is what I used. It was recommended from Harts who stated they used them for years. They said it was more than enough. This coming from people that go by "the colder the better" when speaking of water injection and a/w ic's. I used them are they are now going on 3 years old and are still on the truck working just fine. I think that is MORE than enough flow as well.

Pump, Centrifugal, 12vdc - Marine Bilge Pumps - Marine-RV - Pumps : Grainger Industrial Supply
 
2Tone12V said:
Well this is what I used. It was recommended from Harts who stated they used them for years. They said it was more than enough. This coming from people that go by "the colder the better" when speaking of water injection and a/w ic's. I used them are they are now going on 3 years old and are still on the truck working just fine. I think that is MORE than enough flow as well.

Pump, Centrifugal, 12vdc - Marine Bilge Pumps - Marine-RV - Pumps : Grainger Industrial Supply
Click to expand...

funny because my info as far as the ic setup came from a guy who was working or going to be working for harts. pat!
I know 2.6 is the new 3.0.. that explains why my 2.6 truck beat your old 3.0 truck at urbana this year..:cheer:
 
With a true 66mm turbo.. so is 2.6 the new 3.0 or is the 3.0 just getting old??? ahhahahahah im done arguing.. do what you want. I gave the guy my advise. I know what my air temp are. but I built a ice box for my spearco a/a so It is what it is..
 
outlaw99 said:
Sorry I like my truck to look good. I dont want a beer cooler for my setup. Not that it adds that much price to have something nice built but for a good spearco core you lookn at 1500-2000. then 2 pumps or a huge pump 300-500. your grainger **** is junk. I will stick with my a/a setup and be just fine.. I know alot of top trucks that didnt need it in 2.6 or 2.8. unless he 3.0 or bigge rI would do air to air or try a frozen boost setup and tell me how it works for you.
Click to expand...

another big money guy rather spend money on stuff that looks good than go good.
 
If your air to water isnt getting you below 100 degrees, id say you need to look into your set up. Ive seen some people have pretty cheap set ups, and still be below 100 on intake temp.
 
2Tone12V said:
Well this is what I used. It was recommended from Harts who stated they used them for years. They said it was more than enough. This coming from people that go by "the colder the better" when speaking of water injection and a/w ic's. I used them are they are now going on 3 years old and are still on the truck working just fine. I think that is MORE than enough flow as well.

Pump, Centrifugal, 12vdc - Marine Bilge Pumps - Marine-RV - Pumps : Grainger Industrial Supply
Click to expand...

Did you reduce it down to 3/4 hose out of the pump or reduce it at the cooler. Most coolers only have 3/4 npt or 1'' npt. I like the beer cooler idea. :Cheer:
 
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