Ahale's 94 Build thread
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Big Blue24
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Wow, now that's what a bent strut looks like!!!
Lesson learned, elevated line pressure with stock strut = 2nd gear failure!!!!
If you're cheap, bend it back straight and add small stiffener plates to the sides. There isn't much room between the strut and the valve body so you're best bet is to buy an upgraded one that fits for $25 instead of wasting time making the stock one work.
ahale2772
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Will do, thanks.
I wouldnt mind a Kenneys, i still need to call, looks like even their street clutches have solid hubs..... Maybe not the best for heavy traffic in boston? Not that any double disk will be, but i need something.
It has occurred to me, that there is absolutly no way to make cheep power in transmissions, without doing it like Will and using pre-twisted billet inputs and whatnot.
On a side note, I'm trading my old auto transfercase for a set of 028 DV's that he bought from Will (big blue24) pretty pumped about that, I figure I will be well into the 500's with just a lift pump, the DV's should get me just out of the range out of what this FMW62 can support, need more air! Thinking of either a single 467 or throwing a 78 under the 62.
ahale2772
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028 dv's are in! All i can smell is clutch.
The dv's made a huge difference in drivability and power. The truck feels like a monster, and dosnt "nose off" like it used to with the 131's.
Id love to get into low-mid 500's with a stock fuel system, i may even just build a fuel system with a sump and big lines to see how far i can get with the stock pump!
The dv's made a huge difference in drivability and power. The truck feels like a monster, and dosnt "nose off" like it used to with the 131's.
Id love to get into low-mid 500's with a stock fuel system, i may even just build a fuel system with a sump and big lines to see how far i can get with the stock pump!
ahale2772
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Time to order the clutch, going to stay double disk, not sure who's clutch just yet.
Need a lift pump like yesterday ....
If i can find a buyer for my 62, im going to step up to a 467, try out the bigger single route.
Time to order some parts!
Need a lift pump like yesterday ....
If i can find a buyer for my 62, im going to step up to a 467, try out the bigger single route.
Time to order some parts!
Dazed&Confused
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Do a valair triple and tell me how you like it lol.
ahale2772
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thats alot of scooters!$!$!$!$ its either lift pump, and clutch, or just clutch...
I'm leaning twards both... that means the budget for a clutch and input is 1500$
here is the big question.... what lift pump???
wish I could afford a waterman setup, but i dont believe I can.
what about these new fuel lab pumps? is there one for a 94-98 truck? and if so... can i get 60PSI out of it?
XDieselfreakx
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Nice build man. wat head studs and gasket did u use... Nice numbers ur posting too. Kind of interested to see wat it does now on the dyno
Sent front camo cased otterbox iphone
Sent front camo cased otterbox iphone
ahale2772
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thanks, arp2000's @ 140ftlbs and a stock gasket
So tomorrow I'll be ordering a clutch, honestly still on the fence. budget is still close to 1500 as i can get.
I have not seen any southbend pricing yet, so I dont know what they offer.
Kenneys has a 650 hp dual disk up for 1000$ as a special, but IDK if it comes with the upgraded throw out arm, pivot and bearing... so i need to call. its still going to come to 1400 ish after shipping and an input kit.
Valair quoted me 1400 plus shipping for their street double rated at 650 hp with an input kit (that I assume is at a package discount for 300$).
so its kenneys or valair at the same price for 650HP at 1400ish$
OR... go all out, with a bronze inlay dual disk from kennys for 1450$ then an input kit... and be at around 2000$ said and done. or even more all out, with the valair street tripple at 2300$ said and done, and never have to worry about my clutch slipping.
I'm seriously on the fence about a new turbo, I think with a s467 I will be damn neer 650 horse after a lift pump ... thus making a clutch choice very hard
Big Blue24
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You could wait 6 days for a black friday sale at one of your favorite on-line vendors and maybe get a better deal. There's always a good deal floating out there if you look and/or wait for it!!!!
XDieselfreakx
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Next mod is lift pump? Are u going with the raptor pump, airdog? Or is that already done
Sent front camo cased otterbox iphone
Sent front camo cased otterbox iphone
ahale2772
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Lift pump is next, honestly i'm going to stretch the stock piston pump as far as i can. i figure running 1/2 lines, eliminating the fuel heater, and making fittings as large as i can will give the lift pump as good as a chance as it can. Right now, with 5x16's and a loose afc, I've got 0 WOT smoke after the 62 initially spools, clean as a daisy after the initial puff.
Im sure i was sucking the stock pump dry a long time ago.
Still no gauges, I'm way under fueled, once I've got some real fuel flowing I will invest in an egt and fuel psi gauges, not worried about much else just yet.
Im sure i was sucking the stock pump dry a long time ago.
Still no gauges, I'm way under fueled, once I've got some real fuel flowing I will invest in an egt and fuel psi gauges, not worried about much else just yet.
ahale2772
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Lift pump is next, honestly i'm going to stretch the stock piston pump as far as i can. i figure running 1/2 lines, eliminating the fuel heater, and making fittings as large as i can will give the lift pump as good as a chance as it can. Right now, with 5x16's and a loose afc, I've got 0 WOT smoke after the 62 initially spools, clean as a daisy after the initial puff.
Im sure i was sucking the stock pump dry a long time ago.
Still no gauges, I'm way under fueled, once I've got some real fuel flowing I will invest in an egt and fuel psi gauges, not worried about much else just yet.
Im sure i was sucking the stock pump dry a long time ago.
Still no gauges, I'm way under fueled, once I've got some real fuel flowing I will invest in an egt and fuel psi gauges, not worried about much else just yet.
ahale2772
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ive got a few questions...
Clutch should come this week, ordering an input now. When i go to do the clutch, i know i should check and see if the trans has brass synchros so I can run GL-5 oil. IF NOT.... should I bother with changing the stock synchros out? the truck this trans came out of had 300K miles on it, the transmission shifts perfect and makes no strange noises. Looking at the RTV on the 5thgear housing, its clear that its been taken apart. Seeing that its got 300K on it and it still has 5th gear....Is it safe to assume the nut has been retained in some way? I know I wont know for sure ...but is it even possible for one to hit 300K without the nut retained?
next... I'm hoping to order another turbo by the end of this week, one of the 67mm borg s400's. I dont really know where that will put me for power, I'm guessing damn neer 600 with a mild tune and a decent lift pump. fueling now is 5x16's, Will (bigblue 24v)'s 028 DV's, rack plug and the obvious afc stuff. ive got a Bean's sump for the tank, and a nice flowing set of filters, I need to make a fuel system, maybe this weekend I will. I'm wondering if it is a bad idea to keep the truck "de-tuned" by trying to keep a stock lift pump on it. with a full 1/2ID fuel system, It will have as good a chance as ever at getting me close to 600, but will it be bad for the injection pump to not have a ton of fuel running throgh it? Right now I can tell its out of fuel, 028's and 5x16's should not clean up like it is.....Reason i want to keep it de-tuned is to keep this 650Hp clutch alive, i honestly do not need anymore power than high 500's low 600's, so it would be good to keep power down
also... ive got a 175hp engine sitting here that I could swap pumps with. would shooting for 600hp with a 175HP pump with a stock lift pump be more logical than trying to do so with a 160 pump.... or are both going to never happen....?
next... at 600HP ish, when should i worry about drive train parts? transfercase... ujoints and stuff like that? should I worry at all?
Clutch should come this week, ordering an input now. When i go to do the clutch, i know i should check and see if the trans has brass synchros so I can run GL-5 oil. IF NOT.... should I bother with changing the stock synchros out? the truck this trans came out of had 300K miles on it, the transmission shifts perfect and makes no strange noises. Looking at the RTV on the 5thgear housing, its clear that its been taken apart. Seeing that its got 300K on it and it still has 5th gear....Is it safe to assume the nut has been retained in some way? I know I wont know for sure ...but is it even possible for one to hit 300K without the nut retained?
next... I'm hoping to order another turbo by the end of this week, one of the 67mm borg s400's. I dont really know where that will put me for power, I'm guessing damn neer 600 with a mild tune and a decent lift pump. fueling now is 5x16's, Will (bigblue 24v)'s 028 DV's, rack plug and the obvious afc stuff. ive got a Bean's sump for the tank, and a nice flowing set of filters, I need to make a fuel system, maybe this weekend I will. I'm wondering if it is a bad idea to keep the truck "de-tuned" by trying to keep a stock lift pump on it. with a full 1/2ID fuel system, It will have as good a chance as ever at getting me close to 600, but will it be bad for the injection pump to not have a ton of fuel running throgh it? Right now I can tell its out of fuel, 028's and 5x16's should not clean up like it is.....Reason i want to keep it de-tuned is to keep this 650Hp clutch alive, i honestly do not need anymore power than high 500's low 600's, so it would be good to keep power down
also... ive got a 175hp engine sitting here that I could swap pumps with. would shooting for 600hp with a 175HP pump with a stock lift pump be more logical than trying to do so with a 160 pump.... or are both going to never happen....?
next... at 600HP ish, when should i worry about drive train parts? transfercase... ujoints and stuff like that? should I worry at all?
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