Air coming out intake...why?

LReiff said:
If the cam is stock you're probably ok but if it's a regrind it may need an offset key to get it properly degreed. First things first, make sure the valves are all opening/closing properly and go from there.
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Supposedly a stock cam...probably is stock

ahale2772 said:
You did check the pushrod engagement like someone allready said correct? take a rough look at all the valve heights, to make sure they all look similar when closed
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Yes I did. Pretty sure they looked right even...as even as my eye balls can tell anyways
 
Alright...I just went and did a compression test. I have eliminated injectors leaking, and have figured out 1, 5, and 6 have good compression and 2, 3, and 4 are low.

#1 - 310
#2 - 260
#3 - 240
#4 - 240
#5 - 300
#6 - 310

I am gonna try and unbolt the rockers, spin the motor 360, and then try that as TDC.

Maybe this will ring a bell for someone
 
Smokin' LB7 said:
Alright...I just went and did a compression test. I have eliminated injectors leaking, and have figured out 1, 5, and 6 have good compression and 2, 3, and 4 are low.

#1 - 310
#2 - 260
#3 - 240
#4 - 240
#5 - 300
#6 - 310

I am gonna try and unbolt the rockers, spin the motor 360, and then try that as TDC.

Maybe this will ring a bell for someone
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Thats not nearly enough compression on any of the cylinders. A good tight engine should be 400+. An engine wont run on 250 or less. You have something wrong or that engine is flat wore out. By your psi your engines compression ratio is down in the 12-13 range
 
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When I did a check on mine it was 500psi across the board. And that was an SO engine.
 
OK...tried flipping the motor 360 and doing a valve adjustment. Definitely didnt work. Got to #4 intake and there wasnt enough adjustment to let the valve close.

Soooooooo...do I need to pull the cam or the head? Or what else could I have missed?
 
I would first check the cam key to be sure the gear hasn't spun then I'd adjust the valves back to where you had them originally and fire it up! Run it up to operating temp and see if there are any signs of low compression like excessive blow by. Do another compression test after it cools.
 
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PSUCE said:
What?
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Cylinder #4 intake. The way I was trying it, those intake valves were all the way open, and there was not enough adjustment in the rocker arm to let it close all the way (because I was 360* out on the crank).

Does that make more sense?
 
Is this a stock cam? If not then you need to degree the cam and see were it is. You cant always go off the keu way on an aftermarket cam. My roller cam had to be jumped 3 teeth to get it were it needed to be
 
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What are the chances that there is like an industrial cam or generator cam or something like that in there? And the cam was made to run the other direction?
 
I didnt see any were but did the marks on the cam line up?
 
I would be really concerned with no more compression then it has on all cylinders. Im guessing what ever is causing that maybe related to the poping. As it is now it will take a can of ether to get it to start and run
 
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