Dragon Fire Vp44

Don't tell me a dyno is worthless to a puller. its a great TUNING TOOL for knowing where you need to be RPM wise to pull.

I looked at my sheets from last year compared to Saturday's runs with my new p-pump. My peak numbers went from 562 with vp44 to 631 with p-pump...not a big gain...but at 3800rpms I went from making 180hp/250tq to making 490hp/650tq. I now know that I want to be somewhere around 3800 when pulling where as before I wanted it to drag me down to 3300rpms to make good power.

For me its not about the peak numbers , its the area under the curve and knowing what I am making at what rpm. Its only useful tho if you have graphs from previous set-ups to compare to, thats when you can really get into tuning your truck to pull at its best.

As for the new II pump, as a puller you shouldn't care about the peak number unless you wanna brag to your buddies. You should be looking at it and seeing how far out this new pump is making power before dropping off. Thats the key, once you know where you are making power, you set up your gearing, tires, etc to stay in that RPM range.
 
As for the new II pump, as a puller you shouldn't care about the peak number unless you wanna brag to your buddies. You should be looking at it and seeing how far out this new pump is making power before dropping off. Thats the key, once you know where you are making power, you set up your gearing, tires, etc to stay in that RPM range.

This is also very good advice for drag racers. I want to keep the rpm just above peak torque once it shifts, and just above peak hp when it does shift (max average hp from the shift point to where the rpm drops to).

Paul
 
Don't tell me a dyno is worthless to a puller. its a great TUNING TOOL for knowing where you need to be RPM wise to pull.

I looked at my sheets from last year compared to Saturday's runs with my new p-pump. My peak numbers went from 562 with vp44 to 631 with p-pump...not a big gain...but at 3800rpms I went from making 180hp/250tq to making 490hp/650tq. I now know that I want to be somewhere around 3800 when pulling where as before I wanted it to drag me down to 3300rpms to make good power.

For me its not about the peak numbers , its the area under the curve and knowing what I am making at what rpm. Its only useful tho if you have graphs from previous set-ups to compare to, thats when you can really get into tuning your truck to pull at its best.

As for the new II pump, as a puller you shouldn't care about the peak number unless you wanna brag to your buddies. You should be looking at it and seeing how far out this new pump is making power before dropping off. Thats the key, once you know where you are making power, you set up your gearing, tires, etc to stay in that RPM range.

Good point. That is a huge jump in power that you gained switching to P-pump. Going from 3300rpm to 3800 is also going to make a huge difference as well. I understand what you are saying & I agree. What I meant when I said that about the dyno is that hp isn't the only thing to consider. I've beat guys who had 600hp already because they either chose the wrong gear or wrong setup. I was just saying that if Kman won't dyno....they should settle it on the track. Congrats on the numbers TJ.:Cheer:
 
TJ I see your point but I leave the line and whatever Rpm Feels good usually try to go as high as I can. Now this all changes on track conditions. You know when your out of Horsepower when the sled hits you.

Tory
 
Has anyone figured out which fueling boxes/tuners work best with the dragon fire pump?
 
yea me too. i think im gonna get a stealth cover though just to be on the safe side with it. i dont wanna fry a new pump right away. i agree this pump is bada$$. what do ya'll think about that stealth cover?
 
I think trying to hide a tappped pump by using the stealth cover is pointless when the people inspecting the failed pump are WELL aware of what to look for.

If you feel the stealth cover is a better tap, go for it. If you think II will not notice a stealth tapped pump that fails, you're living in a dream world.
 
I think trying to hide a tappped pump by using the stealth cover is pointless when the people inspecting the failed pump are WELL aware of what to look for.

If you feel the stealth cover is a better tap, go for it. If you think II will not notice a stealth tapped pump that fails, you're living in a dream world.

They told me that "Any tapped pump wires will end up voiding warranty on just the electronics. PSG (Brain Box) replacement is usually 650.00 unless more damage is found."

Not trying to hide it, it just provides a better connection and keeps it out of the weather, and cleaner look imo. I and well aware if it is tapped then I am going to have to pay for that, "you gotta pay to play"
 
whens the first pull someone will be running with one of these new pumps. Im anxious to see one run! Someone definalty has to post the videos.
 
Imagine the first pull for Tyrel will be TS Oulaw?? Haven't heard of any pulls around here before then.
 
This vp is nasty. Untapped it will go well past 3000 rpm. I am going to the drag strip tomorrow so I can see what this thing will do.
 
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