Finally made it to the 10s

I always thought your truck either 60ft's like a beast or needs more umph on the top end. I ran a 11.90@114 with my daily driver truck and it cut consistent 1.7 60's. I think you need to find some mph on the big end in comparison to all of the times I have seen.
 
longhorn859 said:
I always thought your truck either 60ft's like a beast or needs more umph on the top end. I ran a 11.90@114 with my daily driver truck and it cut consistent 1.7 60's. I think you need to find some mph on the big end in comparison to all of the times I have seen.
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Yeah I know its not getting it on the big end like it needs too. I really feel like its an airflow issue. It was making 70 psi at TS and running 11.32 @ 117 this 10.99 pass was at 62 psi so I feel like at 70 it was just backing it up and not getting it into the engine.

I got enough parts to take care of that tho I think. Its just finding time to work on it.

Sent with a Droid RAZR in one hand and 14,000 volts in the other.
 
I wish I could get the half ton to 60 like this.. its got the 116mph trap speed..
 
DEZLFREK said:
I wish I could get the half ton to 60 like this.. its got the 116mph trap speed..
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Probably has a lot to do with those 30psi-3000rpm launches he does. I was feeling bad doing 125mph+ and still only running 11.0s until I read that. Then it made sense that he can do 1.5s and I'm usually 1.7s. But I'm still running street tires and 20psi launches are it for me.
 
my old truck would 60 the best of 1.67 but that was on 37s and only 20 psi launch but with a little nitrous to help..
 
You can tell how hard its launching in this pic. This was my launch at TS in the semifinals. Almost 30 psi boost, not sure where I was at in RPM....we had to put limiting straps on it to keep it from pulling the frontend up so hard, but it is still pulling the driver side tire

y5agaja7.jpg


Ashley Denton
 
I'm not doubting, I just need to figure out how to get my junk going quicker. 2wd doesn't help me. With 305/45/22 tires my 60 ft sucks but I trap around 120. I have a 67.7 fmw race cover, billet wheel turbo and steed manifold with gate and I'm putting 2 stage nxd 4000 kit on it along with 32 or 33 in slicks and then I will see what ****s the bed. Also changing the valve body to allow 1ST OR 2ND GEAR LOCKUP. Currently doesn't lock till 3rd gear.
 
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3rd gear lock is your biggest problem bud, change that valve body, the half ton has a fairly chitty first half but changes almost a half second from 1st gear lockup to 3rd gear lockup..
 
It usually spins the tires when it locks in 3rd with street tires. I'm sure slicks will hold locking in 1st or 2nd
 
if you lock it early it will, I lock it about 10 to 15 feet out, tends to bog it a little, the result is that its not loosing anything through the converter from then on and you don't give the tire to big of shock to handle the acceleration.. there is however a balancing act that you will have to find between far enough out to not totally bog and not hitting the lockup just as it gets to close to the second gear shift to spin..
using a nos programmable timer would be the easiest then it would lockup at a timed event from full throttle to activate it..
 
DEZLFREK said:
my old truck would 60 the best of 1.67 but that was on 37s and only 20 psi launch but with a little nitrous to help..
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Early in the season when it was cool, my tires would bite and I was doing 1.62-1.66 60's. But I didn't have my chit together and was only trapping 121-122mph. ETs were 11.0s.

Now, it's running good and traps are 125.8s mph, but's it's spinning bad and the 60s have dropped to 1.72-1.76. Still doing 11.0s :doh:

I could get slicks. But my goal is a 10 sec DD, and getting slicks would be like giving up. One of these days I'll link a 1.62 60' to a 125.8 mph trap, then I'll have something.
 
matty169 said:
I'm not doubting, I just need to figure out how to get my junk going quicker. 2wd doesn't help me. With 305/45/22 tires my 60 ft sucks but I trap around 120. I have a 67.7 fmw race cover, billet wheel turbo and steed manifold with gate and I'm putting 2 stage nxd 4000 kit on it along with 32 or 33 in slicks and then I will see what ****s the bed. Also changing the valve body to allow 1ST OR 2ND GEAR LOCKUP. Currently doesn't lock till 3rd gear.
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Are you manually shifting it? The stock vb will allow lockup in second gear with the selector in D.

This thread makes me want to go back to the track tonight, but its 90*+ and humid:doh:
 
I put my selector in 2 and leave lock-up switch on so it locks up as it hits 2nd, then shift to 3rd, then flip toggle for OD. That's the best I've found. I love my Goerend trans, but I would like to get somebody to rework the valve body for a more aggressive shift, or go to manual valve body.
 
Nope, I dont think it will......

mathews8pt said:
Are you manually shifting it? The stock vb will allow lockup in second gear with the selector in D.

This thread makes me want to go back to the track tonight, but its 90*+ and humid:doh:
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Not on a RH trans.
 
That would be about right.....

Drothgeb said:
Early in the season when it was cool, my tires would bite and I was doing 1.62-1.66 60's. But I didn't have my chit together and was only trapping 121-122mph. ETs were 11.0s.

Now, it's running good and traps are 125.8s mph, but's it's spinning bad and the 60s have dropped to 1.72-1.76. Still doing 11.0s :doh:

I could get slicks. But my goal is a 10 sec DD, and getting slicks would be like giving up. One of these days I'll link a 1.62 60' to a 125.8 mph trap, then I'll have something.
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You are always going to trap higher mph when you spin the hides a little outta the hole. Look at your slips and you will probably see the slip with the lowest 60 had the best time and not nearly the highest trap speed.
 
By the way, this is a 2002 truck that has a manual pcm in it. (No torque reduction supposedly) Thats why the RH trans is in it. High gear and lockup are controlled by a Suncoast race controller. Controller is actually set to lock at 30mph, but it wont lock till 3rd. Its getting redone anyway.

Importer, If I was you I wouldnt want firmer shifts. It just breaks parts more often and makes it easier to spin tires.
 
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matty169 said:
Not on a RH trans.
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yes it will, with the trans in drive, flick the lockup at a light and it will shift 2-3-od locked

Cummin_un_glued, may I ask what is done to your drive train to hold the launches? stock Tcase? driveshafts? axles?
 
No it won't. I don't manually shift it now. I put it in drive and go. I have talked to 2 builders and there is something in the rh valvebody that needs 2 be done according to them. Re trans will lock in 2nd in drive, rd doesn't.
 
I've personally worked over/tuned up several 47rh valvebodies, with the stock or transgo manual valve, they will lock in 2nd gear when the gear selector is in D and the lock-up solenoid is energized. If the gear selector is in manual 2nd, they will not lock unless you modify and block a passage in the valvebody.

For lock-up to work in 2nd gear, most trucks need a full-time jumper in-lieu of the transmission relay in the under-hood fuse box. I suspect your 47rh does not lock in second because you either need a jumper, or the Suncoast controller is not energizing the lock-up solenoid when it's commanded to. Also, 30mph is 3rd gear territory so try setting it to 10 mph and install a jumper in the fuse box and see what happens.
 
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