HE351VE on a 12 valve

I had the same thing drawn up at the start of all this. Blind holes in both the manifold and Turbo dash that design (mine and yours) to pieces.
 
CSM diesel said:
I had the same thing drawn up at the start of all this. Blind holes in both the manifold and Turbo dash that design (mine and yours) to pieces.
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That is what I was afraid of.

Did you use rectangular tubing for between the 2 flanges?
 
apwatson50 said:
I was thinking of something like the following, but with 4 studs in the adapter, but i'm not sure that will work with the manifold or turbo.

t3toveadapterflange.jpg
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Your design will work but you need to make both flanges larger or add ears to the corners so you can bolt them together.

Basically make recessed bolt locations to bolt a flange to the manifold. Then make a recessed bolt flange and bolt it to the HE351ve. And finally bolt the two flanges together from the added ears or larger flange widths at the corners.

If i had a machine shop and the skill to run the equipment, i would have done this months ago and been first to the market with a "HE351ve" turbo install kit!!!!
 
The tuning continues....

I have a pretty solid baseline for the turbo at 30psi drive and 30spi boost.

VGT actuates at 35psi, so I am happy so far. Now to turn the fuel back up and see if it is still following suit.

AFC spring tension is coming into play with this project more than ever... not saying that it was not important before, it is just more evident with this turbo.

Fuel comes on too early it boost too quickly and opens the VGT and it falls on its face. Fuel comes on too late or not enough, and its a stale-mate between the AFC and the VGT.

I was at the fall on face mode at first, and now im at the stale mate..

getting ever closer:) Total driving time with this bugger is still less than an hour, time and tuning, need more of both :(
 
i'd figure you'd want it closed a little more? i was up in laramie for a time (yuck) and lost 7psi at that altitude from sea level. $.02
 
why don't you actuate the VGT w/ drive pressure instead of boost?

CSM diesel said:
The tuning continues....

I have a pretty solid baseline for the turbo at 30psi drive and 30spi boost.

VGT actuates at 35psi, so I am happy so far. Now to turn the fuel back up and see if it is still following suit.

AFC spring tension is coming into play with this project more than ever... not saying that it was not important before, it is just more evident with this turbo.

Fuel comes on too early it boost too quickly and opens the VGT and it falls on its face. Fuel comes on too late or not enough, and its a stale-mate between the AFC and the VGT.

I was at the fall on face mode at first, and now im at the stale mate..

getting ever closer:) Total driving time with this bugger is still less than an hour, time and tuning, need more of both :(
Click to expand...
 
sooter said:
i'd figure you'd want it closed a little more? i was up in laramie for a time (yuck) and lost 7psi at that altitude from sea level. $.02
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Closed anymore it is a restriction on the engine, exhaust brake and such...

Forrest:

It will probably get to that point, time will tell. :bang
 
Forrest Nearing said:
why don't you actuate the VGT w/ drive pressure instead of boost?
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I've been contemplating the same thing... Gonna try it soon I think.

CSM diesel said:
Closed anymore it is a restriction on the engine, exhaust brake and such...
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I know how you feel... Between finding that sweet spot in the initial setting on the VGT and in the AFC it is very interesting. The elevation doesn't make it any easier. It took me about two weeks to figure it out in Colorado Springs. But I think you have a pretty good head start on it. I kept playing with the VGT instead of the AFC, once I adjusted that it smoothed out.
 
Big Blue24 said:
Your design will work but you need to make both flanges larger or add ears to the corners so you can bolt them together.

Basically make recessed bolt locations to bolt a flange to the manifold. Then make a recessed bolt flange and bolt it to the HE351ve. And finally bolt the two flanges together from the added ears or larger flange widths at the corners.

If i had a machine shop and the skill to run the equipment, i would have done this months ago and been first to the market with a "HE351ve" turbo install kit!!!!
Click to expand...

I see what you're saying, the one problem I have with that, is then you would have 3 gaskets to leak! I guess the best way is a welded adapter with 2 flanges, easiest and cheapest.
 
i'm assuming/thinking that using drive pressure to open a wastegate actuator may cause the actuator to open too soon...or that you would need a higher opening psi actuator than mine (factory one which starts to open around 20psi).


confused013.gif
 
Forrest Nearing said:
just do it man... if you were any closer, I'd donate some stainless tubing for the cause :eek:
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Thanks! Too bad im stuck in a hotel until friday:bang Marathon Oil is actually doing completions work:what:

I have some 3/16" copper tubing and associated compression fittings to fit this all up to use drive pressure.

I have a boost elbow to bleed off pressure to the actuator, I can have it open from 20psi to 40psi.

I might not even need the bleed when using drive pressure with where it is set now (VGT position)
 
If it is opening too quickly just put a flow control in the return side of the cylinder. Basically that is allt he boost elbows are. Then you can let the cylinder move slowly open, and it wouldn't just dump.
Drive pressure might cause the same if not worse situation. The drive pressure will spike as your bringing the wheel to speed.
 
zstroken said:
If it is opening too quickly just put a flow control in the return side of the cylinder. Basically that is allt he boost elbows are. Then you can let the cylinder move slowly open, and it wouldn't just dump.
Drive pressure might cause the same if not worse situation. The drive pressure will spike as your bringing the wheel to speed.
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It is a spring closure single acting cyl. The spring closes it, there is an exhaust port on the sprung side of the piston, i might be able to plug that off to dampen the system...
 
Put flow controls on and you should be able to control the rate at which the cylinder opens and closes.
 
Having a double acting cyl using pressure to both open and close would allow me to open and close the cyl at different rates using flow controls as you suggest.

Having a single acting cyl using pressure to open and a spring to close, The single flow control on the inlet would control the rate of opening and closing at the same time, slow closing would = slow opening.
 
Well...

Had a little time today to mess around with the truck.

I found the sweet spot for the geometry on the low end. Produces a little over 1.5:1 drive to boost ratio until it is at full song (37psi at the moment.)

I am having trouble with getting the upper end of the VGT actuation to happen when I want it to. I am using a boost elbow to delay the pressure to the cylinder, and I believe that is the source of the trouble.

The boost elbow is a glorified needle valve w/ a bleed orifice. It is not sensitive enough to have the cyl open with any kind of regularity.

I have a ball and spring style boost controller headed my way to remedy this. That way I can use spring tension and a seated ball to restrict pressure. There is also a very small bleed orifice on the controller, so it will still close slowly.

My EGT's are around 1300*F at full throttle with zero smoke. I do believe that my stock timing, small injectors (5X0.010"), and large amounts of rack travel are contributing to this as well.

:ft:
 
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