HE351VE on a 12 valve

has anyone TRIED the exhasut brake yet? while driving?

I have mine setup now almost the way i want to... Wastegate actuator opens the veins, and a little elecric motor puches the vains all the way closed... I tried the exaust brake yesterday, and it works really well and sounds good too...

i just can figure out how to connect a window or lock switch, to drive the litle motor, thats already on there, that needs to invert both + and - to move in and out... thats what switches my EB on, once im done ill start a new thread with pics and probably videos
 
12valvesub said:
Thats awesome, exactly what i was looking for.
Clean set up
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thanks, not bad, it runs every day. it's not as pretty as i want it yet, but oh well.

i can take more pics, but that's the basics. it did take some time to figure out what worked best. ie i had to reweld the actuator tab that holds the actuator body on since i had it too close to the turbo at first.

i have it set up where it just barely barks if i let right off the throttle from say 2000rpms. any "smaller" in the housing adjustment and it barks all of the time...like if you had an hx20 on it haha.

the exhaust is quiet straight piped. with the collar fully opened it's as loud as a 4" system with muffler...a bit louder at WOT though. and you have to mix in some WHOOSHING sound that a VGT duramax makes at like 20-30psi.
 
sooter said:
no, there's no regulator on there, it's the stock wastegate actuator from an he351 which should be damn close to an hx35 actuator (maybe a tad more pressure since the stock turbo opens up at 25psi on a CR).

now that i have some time today maybe i can finish up some of the unfinished things on it

i've been told that the hole is a cleaning port? it's suppose to be threaded? if so, what threads? (maybe i can cut some new ones)

the Collar Arm opens around 20psi give or a take a few psi depending on how much load is on the engine and at what rpm. the transition is i'd say 98% seamless. you can tell when it transitions between the two by sound, but not by feel after tuning it. i have it turned up to 38psi with the fuel from smarty TNT #3.

turbo.jpg
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Good pic I think my actuator is not as strong as yours since its off a little case tractor turbo. But I will try its witout the regulator and maybe rig up something to let my turbo not open up to big. Just more tuning, Im using my Smarty with the Beta 4.2 so my temps go up but they come down pretty quick and cools well. Thanks for your info Sooter
 
Got a couple questions!

I have a couple threaded small holes drilled into the center section at an angle on my 351vgt one on the top side and one on the bottom, I have heard they were an early dealer attempt at fixing the sticking housings, is this true? Do I need to plug them or leave them open like they are?

Second any idea where I can pickup a shaft speed sensor? I never got one with my used turbo and need to plug it up (too lazy to make a plug LOL).
 
Sooter, did you make your downpipe? Did you weld it to the elbow, or is it connected by a clamp? You know if an HX40 downpipe would work?

Looks great!:Cheer:
 
12VEG said:
Sooter, did you make your downpipe? Did you weld it to the elbow, or is it connected by a clamp? You know if an HX40 downpipe would work?

Looks great!:Cheer:
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The outlet off the VGT is about 3 inches, and the outlet off the VGT elbow is almost 5 inches. You can get the right clamps at the dealership, but they are expencive.
 
12VEG said:
Sooter, did you make your downpipe? Did you weld it to the elbow, or is it connected by a clamp? You know if an HX40 downpipe would work?

Looks great!:Cheer:
Click to expand...

yes i did. i had already made a custom one for the 2nd gen manifold conversion with the stock turbo out of elbows & pipe from berubes.com (an hour away from me). i did have to modify it a good bit for the VGT. i wound up welding a clamp to the new elbow/downpipe which fit onto the back of the turbo...i did not use the original vgt elbow.

it would have been a lot easier if i had used a stock 6.7 manifold with EGR block plates and a newer factory downpipe. however, i REALLY wanted to keep the 2nd gen exhaust sound...and i did!
 
Trapper said:
Good pic I think my actuator is not as strong as yours since its off a little case tractor turbo. But I will try its witout the regulator and maybe rig up something to let my turbo not open up to big. Just more tuning, Im using my Smarty with the Beta 4.2 so my temps go up but they come down pretty quick and cools well. Thanks for your info Sooter
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maybe install a small spring to pull back a little harder? i tried springs at first, but wound up tossing all of them in the trash after it didn't run right on my truck.

tom
 
At what psi does yours start to open sooter?
My transition isn't smooth. It's slow before opening and once open it mooves.

Btw has Anyone put one of these on a 5.9 CR manifold?
I searched but can't find anything yet... A friend of mine wants me to put one on a 04 truck with a 6.7 block everything else is 5.9 w a he341 turbo..
I'm planning to modify th turbo with studs to t3 style. will the exhaust bolt up?
 
12valve said:
At what psi does yours start to open sooter?
My transition isn't smooth. It's slow before opening and once open it mooves.

Btw has Anyone put one of these on a 5.9 CR manifold?
I searched but can't find anything yet... A friend of mine wants me to put one on a 04 truck with a 6.7 block everything else is 5.9 w a he341 turbo..
I'm planning to modify th turbo with studs to t3 style. will the exhaust bolt up?
Click to expand...

around 17-21psi depending on load/rpm. if you modify it to mount to a T3 flange then it should "bolt up". you'll need a downpipe for an 04.5+ newer truck as the 03-04 he341 turbos have a 3.5" outlet.
 
so, the cast elbow "outlet" is different from the older trucks? or just the turbo outlet?

i know the vgt and the he351cw have the same cast elbow outlet size..., wasnt sure bout the older trucks, i think i have a downpipe of a 06 somewhere...
 
06 downpipe will work, the exhaust elbow outlet on 04.5 and newer trucks is 4".
 
12valve said:
At what psi does yours start to open sooter?
My transition isn't smooth. It's slow before opening and once open it mooves.

Btw has Anyone put one of these on a 5.9 CR manifold?
I searched but can't find anything yet... A friend of mine wants me to put one on a 04 truck with a 6.7 block everything else is 5.9 w a he341 turbo..
I'm planning to modify th turbo with studs to t3 style. will the exhaust bolt up?
Click to expand...

Here 12valve, The he341 has a smaller exhast outlet but its in the right area, with some welding you can get it just like your VP truck.
 

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  • VGT Turbo.jpg
    VGT Turbo.jpg
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The turbo end of the cast elbow is same size for HE341 and HE351cw.

The turbo end of the cast elbow is smaller for HE351ve.

The downpipe end of the cast elbow is smaller for the HE341.

The downpipe end of the cast elbow for the HE351cw and HE351ve is the same size.


If that's too confusing, someone ask and I post up the actual mic'd size of each cast elbow.
 
Thanks big blue!

I needed that info because I was wondering if I could make use of an 04.5-07 downpipe, and just cut and weld it to a 4" exhaust system. Looks like I can yeah? Any reasons why that wouldn't work?
 
Are any of you guys using drive pressure to open the nozzle?

I was thinking about this for a while and was wondering if it would even work.

My thinking is that your drive pressure goes up as more exhaust flows which would open you actuator but as you open the nozzle you are (should be) reducing your drive pressure so as it opens and dp drops wouldn't the nozzle want to close and then open back up as dp increases causing a sort of surging?
 
I am using drive pressure to open the nozzle. works well! I have it tuned to where it is basically a drive pressure regulator. Pressure shoots up to 40psi, then the nozzle opens as the engine spins up and drive pressure is regulated to 40psi :)
 
Okay so it is fully open at 40psi drive and your dp probably doesn't fall under that even at full tilt boogey. Makes sense!
 
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