I F'n Window'd The Block on the Interceptor!!

Sorry to hear that, and your a better man than me. I've got a thread going right now about how I have the urge to set my truck on fire... And I've only got an injector/sensor issue LOL
 
That sucks man. I'm so sorry to hear that.

Take some time, and then tear into it. You've already dug a big enough money pit, even if you sell everything you'll still have a hole worthy of a GA tourist attraction.

Just bought a house, eh? Think of it this way: you now have the start to a really expensive designer coffee table. :hehe:

Ride to the events in the GF's D-Max and while she's racing you can be the official bouncer for the Comp D command center. It has its benefits... :Cheer:


Hey... What did the gasser behind you do?




wideopen said:
David that sucks man, on the bright size we now have another term for windowing a block besides dockboyin' it.
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I think we can let him be famous for something else. Dave at least got his truck out on the road before remodeling the bottom end. :poke:LOL
 
I popped 2 engines. The 2nd one was 10,000 miles after the 1st one let loose. Those were 7.3 Powerstrokes. It took me a year after the last engine popped to get the diesel bug again. As Richard said, take your time and build it right. You have no one to impress. Mine took a year just to decide if I wanted to do diesel again.
 
Sorry to hear about the engine, I know youve put alot of work into it. Dont let it get ya down, maybe take a break to clear your head then get back to it.
 
It sucks that it happened but it's bound to. We take these engines to extremes and sometimes they just say "fu** you I'm doing my own thing."

Stay in the game, it will be built better and stronger.
 
step away from it for a bit... throw a stock CR pullout engine in it to get it running and find you something cheap to go crazy with later
 
Hey Swole,

This sucks to hear bro... I've really enjoyed hearing whats goin' on with your truck because it's pretty much about where I want mine to be...

I too vote that you stick with it... Take your time and get it back together how you want it. (and with a set of treated 12V rods this time!)

I do think you should put a stock motor back in while its down if you're able, that way you don't forget how much you like the truck...

With all that being said... If you do decide (which I hope you don't!) to get rid of some of the goodies, hit me up. I'll take some of them off your hands.
 
Sucks to here Swoleo, I know the feeling though. My truck has been torn apart for 3 months because I have zero $'s to spend on it...
 
Older rods bend to the point it will hardly run, cr rods bend slightly then snap like a twig.

Sorry to hear about the loss Swole..
 
I feel for you, sorry to see that happen to a good guy, I enjoyed following the build up, good luck with whatever you decide to do.
 
Forrest Nearing said:
step away from it for a bit... throw a stock CR pullout engine in it to get it running and find you something cheap to go crazy with later
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Thats great advise and exactly what I did when the Dmax started getting expensive to go faster. I have less money in my entire 67 F100 in my sig than I would have with just a built trans, charger and cp3 kit for my duramax and its way more different and fun to play with.

When you stop having fun is when you need to step back and take the time to make it fun again.
 
Sorry David!! :(

But if it's any consolation............................................

You have ALOT of catching up to do!!! :hehe:



My bet also is on a slightly bent rod compounded by some wiped bearings from the coolant. I guess you didn't check piston protrusion when you had the head off? Like has been said, the powdered metal CR rods, while very strong if straight, don't take kindly to bending!! They shatter and become a swinging poker on the crank!! The forged 12V rods will merely bend not taking out the whole block.
 
Swoled it??

Nah...I don't think so..


I do believe he roughed up the suspect..
 
I'm not convinced that 10min~ of run time with coolant in the oil would eat the rod bearings. I'm leaning more towards a low compression cylinder, from a rod or a scuff..
Tearing it down will indicate how the bearings handled the waterslides.
 
That blows swole maybe its time for a 12v conversion. Damm sorry for ya dude.
 
onetun said:
I'm not convinced that 10min~ of run time with coolant in the oil would eat the rod bearings. I'm leaning more towards a low compression cylinder, from a rod or a scuff..
Tearing it down will indicate how the bearings handled the waterslides.
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I'd agree although he did run it with coolant flowing freely in the oil. The power loss was before that though so I also would lean toward that 11.4 run doing some damage to the rod/s.

If it was bent though, wouldn't the cylinder wall have shown some wear from not being pushed straight or would it just put more wear on the bearing ?
 
triton said:
I'd agree although he did run it with coolant flowing freely in the oil. The power loss was before that though so I also would lean toward that 11.4 run doing some damage to the rod/s.

If it was bent though, wouldn't the cylinder wall have shown some wear from not being pushed straight or would it just put more wear on the bearing ?
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Highly possible you wouldn't see any evidence of damage other than the not-straight rod. If the beam was just bent between the two ends and the wrist pin end and the crank end weren't out of round, I doubt you'd see any abnormal bearing wear.

I do believe you'd see the most wear on the piston itself, not the cylinder.
 
Sorry to hear this, ya know this is so common with the power strokes they have a thread over there tracking serial numbers. :doh:

Keep your dream alive, for everyone that builds a truck, there's at least thousand guys running stock trucks and wanting to live your dream.

I can't believe I'm posting in the Dodge section :hehe:
 
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