Manual VB W/Ratchet Shifter vs Auto VB

9 LIVES said:
How much modification has to be done to a ratchet shifter to make it work on a 47rh?

I had a B&M megashifter it was ok. Never seemed to get it set perfect to where it was 100% in each gear when the gate was locked.
Click to expand...

Any shifter that says it will work with a torqueflite 727 trans will work on any RH or RE trany. Make sure that your shifter matches your valve body pattern.
 
Blacksdieselhp said:
Goerend builds his vb's like that. You just flip the lockup switch on before staging, and it automatically locks when the 2nd gear shift happens. I assume this is what he has if it came from Ponci's.
Click to expand...

That is so cool, I think for sure I am going to upgrade this on my tranny.
devon lock said:
Yeah I did get a goerend valve body from ponci's, thats the only thing I changed on the NAPC tranny.

As for the wiring I have three wires on the main plug 12v power, then u just run a wire to ground for the converter lock and a wire to ground for overdrive, with a toggle switch. I will have to check the pins in the plug again to be sure but I think 6 is overdrive and 7 is converter.
Click to expand...

That would be awesome if you could check that out for me Devon. Could you PM me the approx cost of that VB, also did you sell your old VB? If you did, what kind of dollars could a person sell one for?

Thanks

Kevin
 
morkable said:
That is so cool, I think for sure I am going to upgrade this on my tranny.


That would be awesome if you could check that out for me Devon. Could you PM me the approx cost of that VB, also did you sell your old VB? If you did, what kind of dollars could a person sell one for?

Thanks

Kevin
Click to expand...

Goerend VB's are pretty cheap for what you get, and every one is dyno tested. I have one in my '95. If you're going to be running huge HP and big turbos though, I would put lock-up on a timer or something so it hits at the top of the gear. You might lose 1-2 tenths, but you'll run your converter for the whole year instead of two races.
 
Kevin, my Goerend manual vb forward pattern was 750 3 years ago. For the re trans its pin 11 on the center plug orange wire with black tracer IIRC. Rh is pin 53 and od is 54. Then 350 for the shifter, i have the tci outlaw gate shifter
 
I have the shifter already, I wonder how much I could get for my existing Vb,

Jason, can you explain this timer thing?
 
morkable said:
I have the shifter already, I wonder how much I could get for my existing Vb,

Jason, can you explain this timer thing?
Click to expand...

I'll do my best....basically, if you have a valvebody that locks at the bottom of 2nd, you can do that, but the slip rate on the converter might be 50% or more, so it's the same on the converter clutch as trying to slip a regular clutch, so it's easy to fry the converter clutches. Plus, the 1-2 shift is usually less than 100 feet out, where most diesel trucks on diesel tracks have a hard time hooking anyhow, so no need for more HP.

Anyhow, a timer can be used to trigger lockup on the 1-2 shift, but delay it up to a second after the shift in order to get the slip rate on the converter down to 20-30%, thus vastly increasing the life of the converter clutches. Something like this cheapy $40 deal from Summit can be wired in.

ARC-Auto Rod Controls 1402 - ARC Time Delay Relays - Overview - SummitRacing.com


These ARC time delay relays feature a plug-in fuse and 40 amp relay along with an adjustable 0.1 second to 1.0 second time delay, in 0.1 second increments. They enable you to minimize engine and driveline damage, while improving drivability. You can time-delay a stage activated by a shifter switch until after driveline loading peaks, the clutch locks up, and or the tires hook up. You can also activate two stages by the same switch, delaying the second stage to lessen the motor and driveline stresses.

They mention lessening driveline stress in respect to nitrous, but lockup on our trucks is kind of like the same thing....another 200hp or so at the press of a button.
 
Prob 350-400 depending on who made it and how old.

Jason, im going to have to get one to try it out. I was going to hold off on the switch but that would make it more reliable. Thanks
 
Last edited:
HightechRedneck said:
Prob 350-400 depending on who made it and how old.

Jason, im going to have to get one to try it out. I was going to hold off on the switch but that would make it more reliable. Thanks
Click to expand...


It's sad because there are things like air fuel ratios and converter slip that NOBODY talks about that would move the diesel community years ahead in racing development.......

Diesel Performance is simply miles away form its full potential, at least in the street/strip variety.
 
I will definately have to pick your brain when it comes to me putting mine back together and see what kinda dream setup ya would wanna do after all the research you have been able to do and view even
 
Who is probably best to buy the VB from? By the sounds of it Goerend might be one of the better, or is there other brands that might be better, or as good for less?
 
JQmile said:
I'll do my best....basically, if you have a valvebody that locks at the bottom of 2nd, you can do that, but the slip rate on the converter might be 50% or more, so it's the same on the converter clutch as trying to slip a regular clutch, so it's easy to fry the converter clutches. Plus, the 1-2 shift is usually less than 100 feet out, where most diesel trucks on diesel tracks have a hard time hooking anyhow, so no need for more HP.

Anyhow, a timer can be used to trigger lockup on the 1-2 shift, but delay it up to a second after the shift in order to get the slip rate on the converter down to 20-30%, thus vastly increasing the life of the converter clutches. Something like this cheapy $40 deal from Summit can be wired in.

ARC-Auto Rod Controls 1402 - ARC Time Delay Relays - Overview - SummitRacing.com


These ARC time delay relays feature a plug-in fuse and 40 amp relay along with an adjustable 0.1 second to 1.0 second time delay, in 0.1 second increments. They enable you to minimize engine and driveline damage, while improving drivability. You can time-delay a stage activated by a shifter switch until after driveline loading peaks, the clutch locks up, and or the tires hook up. You can also activate two stages by the same switch, delaying the second stage to lessen the motor and driveline stresses.

They mention lessening driveline stress in respect to nitrous, but lockup on our trucks is kind of like the same thing....another 200hp or so at the press of a button.
Click to expand...


I have two similar timers on the Pro Street truck I use one for the second stage of nitrous and the other I was trying to play with for shifting into OD in conjunction with a hobbs switch.
 
Last edited:
Runninlean said:
I have two similar timers on the Pro Street truck I use one for the second stage of nitrous and the other I was trying to play with for shifting into OD in conjunction with a hobbs switch.
Click to expand...

Make sure to pressure test your Hobbs switches often! I know a Hobbs switch that had lost its adjustment and went from 30psi to 20psi is what cut Harvey out of the Pro Street finals in Topeka. The converter (on a Hobbs) was locking early and bogging the motor, and times went from 9.80s to 10.20s. It's not a bad design, just another maintenance item for a race vehicle!
 
I would imagine a person could use the extra controllers on the NX boost reference controller to handle this too?
 
Morkable(or anyone else interested), shoot me a pm if you'd like a price on a Goerend vb. I'll se if I can save you some $$.
 
167532_180077802015462_100000397314875_465533_4234801_n.jpg


love my scs cheetah. kinda a blurry pic il try and get a better one
 
I would say not, it says it is for a powerglide, which is only 2 speed
 
Those of you waiting for pricing, I will get it to you in the morning. I thought I had it with me. But its in my office.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top