SSR New Release Info and Results Thread...

So I wanst ever planning on posting screenshot in this thread, but his deal with removing pilot and getting white/blue smoke is really getting at me.

Below are a stock main timing and stock pilot timing tables. as you can clearly see with the main timing, the (-) values are injection timing ATDC and the regular values are timing BTDC. Pilot is referenced from main timing.

So if you look at the first cell on the pilot table 0mm3@650rpm=13.0 degrees of timing before main timing. Main timing in the cell is -3.0 degrees which translates to a total injection timing of 10* BTDC at 0mm3@650rpm. Remove that pilot event and your firing the main event at 3*ATDC. which can and will always cause a unhappy engine.

Looking at it further at say 2000rpms and 55mm3 which will translate to medium throttle and 2000rpms...with pilot active your total timing is .5*ATDC on main and 28.9*. Take pilot away and your running again your main event ATDC...never going to be a happy engine like that.

My real point is that unless Marco can rescale the main timing values to compensate for pilot loss...its never going to work properly and can have very adverse conditions.

First is stock pilot timing.

stocktiming-1.png


Next is stock main timing...

stocktiming.png


Again the point of this post is not to bash the SSR product or Marco's hard work...its main focus is to help people undesrtand why their vehicles act as they do when pilot is taken away.
 
I can't see why you would be given the option to remove the pilot if the timing is not rescaled along with it, something don't make sense. I guess I'll wait it out before trying 1.6..


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Many cautions on running with pre injection off.. I just tried to remove my starter with something from inside the motor. When I got her home I reached in and picked a wrist pin out from the hole. Took a bucket to pick up all the pcs on the road. Scattered taking off from a stop sign with normal acceleration. Had some bucking problems trying to get a base tune. Postmortem forth coming. May be this thing made to much snot for forged rods.


First off, thats called " You Swoled It"

I sure am sorry man! I feel your pain.

Did it look similar to this from the fender well...?


All my pics are in here...
Competition Diesel.Com - Bringing The BEST Together



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So first swole and now you?? what was your settings?? SSR making me nervous now.. Why are these motors coming apart like they are


I don't think my settings were the issure, nor the SSR....
I've seen several folks here above my HLT settings from that night...


Chit just breaks sometimes... It just happens to me WAY to often..lol
 
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When I first tried the pre injection off she hardly would run. I tried several tunes to even get her down the road. Way different settings for me. I never pounded on her when see was bucking and getting it tuned but who knows. I've had several runs at the track with 15b pre-injection on and never hooked it up. My first dyno was 826 with a smarty jr and a bad ATS trans. I would like to think it had nothing to do with the pre injection. My guess is we found the limit of a stock rod. As it looks now I just plain broke a stock forged rod and it cleaned house. Crank appears in tact , 1/2 piston in bore, bottom half of rod still on crank but the block has no sides left 5-6.
The SSR is making huge power my guess 900 to 950. Simply put the weakest link broke.
 
When I first tried the pre injection off she hardly would run. I tried several tunes to even get her down the road. Way different settings for me. I never pounded on her when see was bucking and getting it tuned but who knows. I've had several runs at the track with 15b pre-injection on and never hooked it up. My first dyno was 826 with a smarty jr and a bad ATS trans. I would like to think it had nothing to do with the pre injection. My guess is we found the limit of a stock rod. As it looks now I just plain broke a stock forged rod and it cleaned house. Crank appears in tact , 1/2 piston in bore, bottom half of rod still on crank but the block has no sides left 5-6.
The SSR is making huge power my guess 900 to 950. Simply put the weakest link broke.

What were your current settings? Did u ever dyno the ssr or was that just the jr
 
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all I want is a method to get back to 1.5..... bob????

First do you take it back to stock when you make the change.
If so try leaving 1.6 loaded put 1.5 on the smarty load it over 1.6.
when I make the change I never go back to stock only if I want to load my old smarty S06 POD, just something to try.
 
First do you take it back to stock when you make the change.
If so try leaving 1.6 loaded put 1.5 on the smarty load it over 1.6.
when I make the change I never go back to stock only if I want to load my old smarty S06 POD, just something to try.

I've tried everything I can my self. Bob is working on something for me, seems to be an 04.5 thing. All is good.
 
What were your current settings? Did u ever dyno the ssr or was that just the jr

No, I missed Dyno day because I blew a O-ring head gasket. Just couldn't get everything together for a dyno run. When I dynoed the Smarty Jr the SSR wasn't out yet but it ran right through the ATS trans and we quit at 826 before we destroyed the trans.
The last SSR settings I used street were 15B shift =stock, LLT30, HLT30, LLRP15, HLRP12, LLDR4, HLDR12 Pre-injection on. I still had bobble at 1800-2000 medium throttle but all kinds of top end. Plenty of fuel left and I'm sure I could have picked up some more timing. I never raced 16b.
When I tried the 16b Pre-injection off I started with the above settings and couldn't hardly get out the driveway. The last settings I used were not real good yet but heading in the right direction. LLT26, HLT34, LLRP24, HLRP24, LLDR45, HLDR30. The weird thing was I indeed picked up 3 MPG and hit 19.7 at 70. I still had issue with the mid range 1800-2100 bobble & bucking. Some white smoke when getting into throttle at 2000.
 
Your running some serious duration...did you find that helped you out? I raised mine up from what it was with 1.5b and found that it picked up. With 1.6 everything seems so tame. It's like I have to learn how to retune the truck again. I'm running LLT25 LLD15 LLR20 and it seems to run pretty good. I think some more duration is needed though with my 165hp sticks.
No, I missed Dyno day because I blew a O-ring head gasket. Just couldn't get everything together for a dyno run. When I dynoed the Smarty Jr the SSR wasn't out yet but it ran right through the ATS trans and we quit at 826 before we destroyed the trans.
The last SSR settings I used street were 15B shift =stock, LLT30, HLT30, LLRP15, HLRP12, LLDR4, HLDR12 Pre-injection on. I still had bobble at 1800-2000 medium throttle but all kinds of top end. Plenty of fuel left and I'm sure I could have picked up some more timing. I never raced 16b.
When I tried the 16b Pre-injection off I started with the above settings and couldn't hardly get out the driveway. The last settings I used were not real good yet but heading in the right direction. LLT26, HLT34, LLRP24, HLRP24, LLDR45, HLDR30. The weird thing was I indeed picked up 3 MPG and hit 19.7 at 70. I still had issue with the mid range 1800-2100 bobble & bucking. Some white smoke when getting into throttle at 2000.
 
I feel like 1.5b made more power but I do like the smoothness and the fact that there is no bucking. I think with some more tuning I can get the same power. I just hope the bucking doesn't return with higher #'s..
 
Im sorry if someone already posted this, my truck is a daily driver and i tow weekly so im trying to get my tunning sone as fast as possible,

What would you guys think would b best for me as power and reliability with whats on my sig?

Right now i have
TQ 3
Shift Stock
Rpms Stock
LLT 14 but seems to run better on 17 or 19
HLT 35
LLD 25
HLD 35
LLR 35
HLR 50

Would greatly appreciated thanks
 
try TQ1 for starters LT at least 20 your #'s are way high and must smoke like a train! Bring your rail back down to earth at 5 each!
 
Wow 1.6 way better much smoother power I have my HLD at 50 ? Still won't smoke at WOT not complaining just might have to go up to 200 hp sticks running 50 hp right now
 
k ill try that thanks lewt you guys know how it hows, and as far as smoke its ot bad at all compared to twins with stock nozzles and tntr on 5, now that smoked alot lol

One more thing do you want me to bring my LLT up to 20 or my HLT down to 20
 
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One more thing can anyone shoe me where to get 1.6 or 1.5 softwares im still running 1.3 and would like to change that, i checked the smarty page they dont have it
 
What is everyone running for Hlt on v1.6? I noticed on the dyno sheets Bob post that Marco had Llt and Hlt both on 50, I'm at 35 right now and notice that my egt's are getting hotter than normal.
 
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