SSR New Release Info and Results Thread...

That is a question for marco! I'm now running:
LT 18
HT 20
LR 3
HR 5
LD 15
HD 18]
RUNS REALLY SMOOTH! But running out of something up top not sure what?! May bump Duration up to 20 but smoke right now is not very noticable and would like to keep it that way!
 
homewrecker said:
Sounding like 1.6 and your truck dont play well together. Considered going back to one of the previous files that did work for you? I switched back to the 1.6b that was being emailed before 1.6b was put on MADS site. Shows 1.6a when downloaded on tuner. Truck runs better with it. You seem to be all over the place with hl and ll settings, more so than others. Just going off all your post it almost seems like something in your over all set up is not meshing together good.
Click to expand...

Part of my all over the place was trying different approaches to get a good street tune. maybe I'm asking to much? Like in a corvette, I can just get in one and go fast and drive like an ass and have fun., :) Drop a gear and go kinda fun.

Doing that, I get rattle and smoke if you're to aggressive. Even with stock injectors, stock turbo and a smarty on 7 or 9 back in the day all you got was smoke then some go.

I can easily find a decent tune that works awesome at the track, virtually smokeless on spool, quickly (in a few seconds), launch and go. There is no way ever will that same tune drive well, like go from 30 mph to WOT with out watching the tail pipe. but in that situation you're not to worried about smoke and your definitely not using the accelerator in several different spots, it's "spool up" "staged" and "WOT". that's it.

I gota have some sort of bad sensor is what I'm thinking that's giving a bad reading. I'll start with temp and boost sensors. with 180,000 miles I'm sure they aren't reacting or reading like new... Plus the weird grid heater light and dings and the high pressure codes. who knows, maybe it's an impossible battle in my case.

I was able to get a rattle free tune when it was 60 degrees out side, How does that not suggest it's a tune and/or sensor read issue? Cuz the injector rattle can be tuned in and out, but I can only go so low on the timing right? As it gets colder, I'm running out of Low Level numbers

I like 1.6 over all, it's smoother and that surge is gone. it's good enough to get me though the winter the few times it will be driven. Once the roads get the first layer of salt on it, there's zero reason to think about going fast to "test" anymore so I'm getting as much tune/fun in as I can till then.
 
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dangerous06 said:
That is a question for marco! I'm now running:
LT 18
HT 20
LR 3
HR 5
LD 15
HD 18]
RUNS REALLY SMOOTH! But running out of something up top not sure what?! May bump Duration up to 20 but smoke right now is not very noticable and would like to keep it that way!
Click to expand...

How far up top are you talking?
 
Like above 3200 doesn't seem to pull as hard but 120 on the freeway is asking for trouble and I'm there in about 3 seconds! from 70. So street tuning is hard if not impossible. Still smoked a ford Dually up a grade, just seat of the pants felt weak.
 
dangerous06 said:
Like above 3200 doesn't seem to pull as hard but 120 on the freeway is asking for trouble and I'm there in about 3 seconds! from 70. So street tuning is hard if not impossible. Still smoked a ford Dually up a grade, just seat of the pants felt weak.
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That's been my general impression of 1.6b. weak on the upper RPM band.
 
Jason, I think looking at hard parts is a good start. Its crazy how all these trucks react so differently. I only had rattle on 1.3 and it was nothing I would call excessive. Never had any noticable change due to temp. Had very mild surging on one of the versions( dont recall which one) Did have the rail hang on 1.5 with hlr above 25. Regardless, all the version once dialed in for most sotp power, were still more than streetable. You have a crap load of fuel on tap. Not too many guys that have posted here have as much as you( pump and injectors) Have you thought of trying some smaller sticks? I know you mentioned sending the ones you have, in to be checked?
 
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JasonCzerak said:
That's been my general impression of 1.6b. weak on the upper RPM band.
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Huh????

I ran my fastest pass by .24 tenths with 1.6b and the rpms never dropped below 2800.

I am going to say this one more, and for the last time...

YOU CAN NOT JUDGE HIGH LEVEL TUNING WITH THE SSR BY THE SEAT OF YOUR PANTS ON THE ROAD!!!!!!
 
Want to add that I will be installing a dual pump kit in a couple weeks. My stage 3 struggles keeping up with my 70% overs. Will be running a stock dmax pump over a stock 6.7 pump. Will see if adequate rp causes any rattle or other quircks like many have experienced.
 
Dockboy said:
Huh????

I ran my fastest pass by .24 tenths with 1.6b and the rpms never dropped below 2800.

I am going to say this one more, and for the last time...

YOU CAN NOT JUDGE HIGH LEVEL TUNING WITH THE SSR BY THE SEAT OF YOUR PANTS ON THE ROAD!!!!!!
Click to expand...

Did you dyno in your SSR? How long did it take. What were your final #'s?
 
homewrecker said:
Jason, I think looking at hard parts is a good start. Its crazy how all these trucks react so differently. I only had rattle on 1.3 and it was nothing I would call excessive. Never had any noticable change due to temp. Had very mild surging on one of the versions( dont recall which one) Did have the rail hang on 1.5 with hlr above 25. Regardless, all the version once dialed in for most sotp power, were still more than streetable. You have a crap load of fuel on tap. Not too many guys that have posted here have as much as you( pump and injectors) Have you thought of trying some smaller sticks? I know you mentioned sending the ones you have, in to be checked?
Click to expand...

I won't try smaller sticks. I'll see about getting these fixed if there are issues. If I do upgrade I'll go to a SAC style nozzle and the same size. In the near future, I intend on using the fuel these would supply. with either turbo(s) or spray upgrades.

Just going up in size on tips from stock to used 90's is one thing. But to get a set of injectors balanced and new costing near $2400, I figured I'd do it once to get 1000whp worth of fuel and leverage software to back them down when I did these injectors. if I just went to a new set of something for 750whp worth, I'd need to do it again and toss out $2400 again. that was my thinking at the time.

never mind that these injectors could be broke, so it's a moot point and part of the game.
 
Jason,

Any setting on my truck will make it spin to 4000...you got something weird going on...

Only crazy low POD setting will affect the rpms...
 
Dockboy said:
Huh????

I ran my fastest pass by .24 tenths with 1.6b and the rpms never dropped below 2800.

I am going to say this one more, and for the last time...

YOU CAN NOT JUDGE HIGH LEVEL TUNING WITH THE SSR BY THE SEAT OF YOUR PANTS ON THE ROAD!!!!!!
Click to expand...

Ummm I ran my fastest times with 1.6b. I'd agree there's more power under the curve in my optimal RPM range. It's kinda funky to explain but to get my best ET's with 1.5, I need to shift closer to 3600-3700rpm, especially getting into OD to stay out of the surge zone and in the "HighLevel" range that was obvious with the dyno graphs to come in around 2700rpm.

With 1.6, it started to fall flat at 3600rpm and stopped at 3800. (lower with less HLD as experienced tonight, I think, will confirm tomorrow as I revert settings). So with that said, I make sure I grabbed gears a few 100rpm sooner. Since the middle RPM power (2000-2500) is much smoother, I actually made better ET's since that's were I should be running anyways.

Is there anyone that would suggest a 700whp average ET/MPH motor couldn't pull past 3800rpm in 2nd gear locked? Just stop revving more rpm's? Stock cam or not? Would that be a broken, mismatched part issue? That's only 70mph or something right? Need a dyno for this? don't think so.

So Dockboy, since I don't have a window in the block and it starts just fine every morning, what else, besides software, could prevent that?

Yeah, I didn't double check if I'm out of heat and out of rail pressure and what the boost and drive did. argh, just been busy recently with no time at lunch to mess around.

Don't get me wrong everyone, just I'm spitting out information left and right, trying every setting everyone has suggested and then some. Beating the crap out of my truck to get this right...... Spent $785 for this new fancy software.... And not a peep out of Bob or Marco. Yet, I'm still trying.
 
cquestad said:
Jason,

Any setting on my truck will make it spin to 4000...you got something weird going on...

Only crazy low POD setting will affect the rpms...
Click to expand...

Free reving, I can do it. it works. free reving.

What else could affect that? I'll be on the horn with Snege in the AM to order intake temp/boost and that sensor in the aircleaner first.
 
fuk this. I'm loading 1.5 up tomorrow for re-comparison.

Downloading the recovery file that for some reason my ECU needs so I can revert, but others can with out a recovery file, that's not a sensor or injector or turbo mismatch issue, no one can argue that.








(see where I'm going here, I think there's bugs in the 04.5 software I have that for some reason are not getting any attention payed to and that's possibly exactly where the problem lives, we all know bob and macro read these threads.... I've emailed bob about these issues when I was testing 1.6.... I'm kinda happy I finally got a recovery file... so there's emails about them too, not just thread posts....)
 
dangerous06 said:
Did you dyno in your SSR? How long did it take. What were your final #'s?
Click to expand...

I have 100's of dyno runs and have spent hours and hours tuning. If you are not willing to put in the time, download TNTR and have at it.

Have only track tuned 1.6b, but my highest fuel only with 1.1 was 927
 
JasonCzerak said:
Ummm I ran my fastest times with 1.6b. I'd agree there's more power under the curve in my optimal RPM range. It's kinda funky to explain but to get my best ET's with 1.5, I need to shift closer to 3600-3700rpm, especially getting into OD to stay out of the surge zone and in the "HighLevel" range that was obvious with the dyno graphs to come in around 2700rpm.

With 1.6, it started to fall flat at 3600rpm and stopped at 3800. (lower with less HLD as experienced tonight, I think, will confirm tomorrow as I revert settings). So with that said, I make sure I grabbed gears a few 100rpm sooner. Since the middle RPM power (2000-2500) is much smoother, I actually made better ET's since that's were I should be running anyways.

Is there anyone that would suggest a 700whp average ET/MPH motor couldn't pull past 3800rpm in 2nd gear locked? Just stop revving more rpm's? Stock cam or not? Would that be a broken, mismatched part issue? That's only 70mph or something right? Need a dyno for this? don't think so.

So Dockboy, since I don't have a window in the block and it starts just fine every morning, what else, besides software, could prevent that?

Yeah, I didn't double check if I'm out of heat and out of rail pressure and what the boost and drive did. argh, just been busy recently with no time at lunch to mess around.

Don't get me wrong everyone, just I'm spitting out information left and right, trying every setting everyone has suggested and then some. Beating the crap out of my truck to get this right...... Spent $785 for this new fancy software.... And not a peep out of Bob or Marco. Yet, I'm still trying.
Click to expand...

Jason,

You need to get out of your own way:doh:

First off, there is absolutly no reason you need, or should want to run to 3800 rpm.

to run your fastest track times you should be shifting no higher than 2800-2900 rpm. But what the hell do I know...I only race nearly every weekend and you spend 3/4 of everyday on the internet:hehe:
 
Dockboy said:
Jason,

You need to get out of your own way:doh:

First off, there is absolutly no reason you need, or should want to run to 3800 rpm.

to run your fastest track times you should be shifting no higher than 2800-2900 rpm. But what the hell do I know...I only race nearly every weekend and you spend 3/4 of everyday on the internet:hehe:
Click to expand...

Don't think so Dockboy. if I shift before 3000rpm into OD @ WOT I bark the turbo and that's with 50psi boost and 60psi DRIVE, no where near 1:1. Every single dyno graph I have with the SSR shows power bumping up at 2700rpm and holding well to 3500, load dyno or inertia dyno. Shifting prior to 2800rpm will do me no good according to the dyno graphs.


Just a little info there old man, my time on the weekends is spent doing more then just racing every weekend. I got about 60 passes in over 3 different weekends a week after I got my auto swapped in.

As for the 3800rpm, no **** power's falling off up there. Just because the power isn't usefull at specific RPM's does not mean it doesn't point to issues elsewhere.


IIRC, each run was started at 20psi and it instantly pegged 50. This is SSR 1.1 tho.... I'd expect the lower end to be much higher now.

001.jpg
 
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