SSR New Release Info and Results Thread...

[paulb]

Paul, can you say that a little louder for Dockboy please?

Actually I was agreeing with him...

IMO, with what you are trying to do, you should never need to be above 3600rpm. Shift below 3400rpm, and run 3600rpm out through the lights.

I do agree with you though, that you have something going on with your truck. What rail pressure codes are you getting? As I understand it, with the SSR, you would only get a high rail pressure code, if the pressure was higher then what the SSR commanded it to be. For example if the SSR used a fca duty cycle that should equate to 24,000psi, and you ended up with 25,000psi then the ECM could set a high rail pressure code. These values are an example only.

I would look more to a rail pressure sensor, dual cp3 controller, fca problems, RPV, etc. The code you are getting, and the rattle all point to rail pressure.

Paul

 

[JasonCzerak]

Actually I was agreeing with him...

IMO, with what you are trying to do, you should never need to be above 3600rpm. Shift below 3400rpm, and run 3600rpm out through the lights.

I do agree with you though, that you have something going on with your truck. What rail pressure codes are you getting? As I understand it, with the SSR, you would only get a high rail pressure code, if the pressure was higher then what the SSR commanded it to be. For example if the SSR used a fca duty cycle that should equate to 24,000psi, and you ended up with 25,000psi then the ECM could set a high rail pressure code. These values are an example only.

I would look more to a rail pressure sensor, dual cp3 controller, fca problems, RPV, etc. The code you are getting, and the rattle all point to rail pressure.

Paul

What? no you are not. Dockboy said to shift at "2800-2900 rpm." With 1.6, I'm shifting closer to 3500 due to the power falling completely flat at 3600 with 1.6. However I do need to get back on the dyno with 1.5/1.6/EFI to confirm exactly where the power band is.. Things will be different next year anyways so who cares about dyno graph lines right now.

Rail pressure code. I forget the exact number. The wording on the smarty was "high pressure CRC mismatch" or something along them lines.

RPV, is there, works. Same issue with the lower pop of or the higher pop off. I do have a cap, it's on loan right now and I do not plan to use one on the street full time as it's impossible to never lift quickly. No sense in risking anything for a few HP.

That's not a bad idea there Paul. nothing extremely weird was pointing at pressure, like a rail gauge reacting funny. I just assumed I was ramping pressure to fast for the amount of duration I was setting. Codes only set when pressure numbers over 10. Word on the street there's a new dual CP3 controller out, I may ask to have one shipped. The FCA's are both floor it stage2's, chances of getting new ones are slim to none. I'll Ask Todd for a rail sensor if he has an extra one on hand as well.

 

[Dockboy]

Paul, can you say that a little louder for Dockboy please? I'm doing just that, keeping it in the curve based on my graphs. Shifting where Dockboy thinks I should shift is obviously wrong.

Actually I was agreeing with him...
IMO, with what you are trying to do, you should never need to be above 3600rpm. Shift below 3400rpm, and run 3600rpm out through the lights.

:doh:


Like I said before...You need to get out of your own way!!!


Again, you are trying to do something your setup is not configured to do no matter how you try and "tune" it. You are consumed with it not making power over 3600 rpm yet there is ABSOLUTLY NO REASON you should ever even get close to that!!*bdh*





Then again...What do I know anyway?:what:

 

[Dockboy]

What? no you are not. Dockboy said to shift at "2800-2900 rpm."

This is where my tranny is set to shift!

You know better though so have at it!!


I'm out:rockwoot:

 

[f6jbob]

Jason, from what your saying here it looks like your confusing torque with horsepower. You need to understand the difference between gas and diesel acceleration power bands. Listen to these guys. You don't know it all yet.:Cheer:

 

[JasonCzerak]

:doh:


Like I said before...You need to get out of your own way!!!


Again, you are trying to do something your setup is not configured to do no matter how you try and "tune" it. You are consumed with it not making power over 3600 rpm yet there is ABSOLUTLY NO REASON you should ever even get close to that!!*bdh*





Then again...What do I know anyway?:what:

That's not the point Dockboy. That's not the point at all. I've said SEVERAL TIMES, the power at 4000 isn't useful. i know this. Damn you're dense.

hypothetically, I put in your cam, your pistons, your head, your turbo's your gearing, fuk, you make my 04.5 ECU work on your motor. Then what? What would you do if everything fell flat at 3600rpm when with 1.1 you were cursing all the way to 4000 or what ever rpm you're running?

My point has been always. something's not right with 1.6 for my motor while 1.5 pulls way farther out, regardless if the rpm I'm focusing on isn't useful.

Sorry for trying to point out a flaw in this precious smarty software that can never have any fault

 

[JasonCzerak]

This is where my tranny is set to shift!

You know better though so have at it!!


I'm out:rockwoot:

Commanded and when it actually shifts are 2 different things. Do you have at hand the data logger's view of what's going on? I can search and find some of your old posts but maybe you have a link closer at hand.

My graphs show power later in the rpm band, not sooner like in the old days of pre SSR... I went by my graphs....

 

[mikmaze]

going to get a chance to try to do some de rattle tuning today, going to try llt6, if that don't work I dont know wtf to do. I got a lot of hunting trips ahead of me and the truck is the only way to get all the gear there, I need to be able to drive this thing without cringing. I have built a truck that is un-driveable, sigh.

 

[dangerous06]

going to get a chance to try to do some de rattle tuning today, going to try llt6, if that don't work I dont know wtf to do. I got a lot of hunting trips ahead of me and the truck is the only way to get all the gear there, I need to be able to drive this thing without cringing. I have built a truck that is un-driveable, sigh.

Dual purpose truck with 210 over injectors?? There's your rattle. I'm also lost on the # values and what they mean! Don't give up i just found my sweet spot LT 18 LR 5 LD 12 The high settings do NOT kick in till after 2800 rpm so you do most of your driving in the low range!

 

[homewrecker]

My truck runs best with numbers near paulb's 1k hp numbers. Llt44 hlt 45. No ratlle. My truck has never had any excessive rattle and the few times I had it, simply lowering the llrp eliminated it. I think alot of you guys are mistaking pressure rattle for timing rattle

 

[2007 5.9]

Dual purpose truck with 210 over injectors?? There's your rattle. I'm also lost on the # values and what they mean! Don't give up i just found my sweet spot LT 18 LR 5 LD 12 The high settings do NOT kick in till after 2800 rpm so you do most of your driving in the low range!

Injector size has nothing to do with rattle....

 

[JasonCzerak]

Here's my observations.

You need need to build your truck around the Smarty Software, if you want the smarty software to work well. It's always been like that back in the old days, little has changed today.

 

[JasonCzerak]

Injector size has nothing to do with rattle....

Some how mikmaze has rattle... his truck has smaller injectors, more turbo's, better then stock cam... That's the smoking gun.


It appears as if Smarty HATES 04.5 trucks.

It's not my part combinations.. it's the software. I think all this crap about bad injectors or to big of a turbo is a piss poor excuse made by the smarty fans.

I've been nothing but nice and informative for the past 6 months.... At this point..

Fuk Smarty.

 

[Dockboy]

Here's my observations.

You need need to build your truck around the Smarty Software, if you want the smarty software to work well. It's always been like that back in the old days, little has changed today.

Some how mikmaze has rattle... his truck has smaller injectors, more turbo's, better then stock cam... That's the smoking gun.


It appears as if Smarty HATES 04.5 trucks.

It's not my part combinations.. it's the software. I think all this crap about bad injectors or to big of a turbo is a piss poor excuse made by the smarty fans.

I've been nothing but nice and informative for the past 6 months.... At this point..

Fuk Smarty.

:hehe::hehe::hehe::hehe::hehe::hehe::hehe:

Do us all a favor...go get yourself EFI Live so you can start blaming them too:bang:doh:

 

[JasonCzerak]

:hehe::hehe::hehe::hehe::hehe::hehe::hehe:

Do us all a favor...go get yourself EFI Live so you can start blaming them too:bang:doh:

Care to explain this ohhh highly tuned SSR one?

Competition Diesel.Com - Bringing The BEST Together - View Single Post - 902hp Common Rail Dodge Single turbo FUEL ONLY!!

I'm still curious as to why 1.5 will pull to 4000, and 1.6 won't. REGARDLESS OF THE USEFULNESS OF SAID RPM.

Where are all these 6000rpm smarty tunes trucks at anyways? I can't recall for any videos and dyno sheets.

 

[mikmaze]

well LLT 6 is a lot better, not near as horrible, but still rattles, tried the above combo with the llt 6 lld8 and rp both at 20........ its better but not great. jason. I am no where's near saying anything remotely close to what you said, I still have hope.

 

[JasonCzerak]

well LLT 6 is a lot better, not near as horrible, but still rattles, tried the above combo with the llt 6 lld8 and rp both at 20........ its better but not great. jason. I am no where's near saying anything remotely close to what you said, I still have hope.

Those settings worked very well, rattle wise, for me. What are your outside temperatures? could it possibly be that we both have sensors that are broke? Mine are on the way from snedge as I type this and I'll swap them out and try 1.6 again after a few changes with 1.5.

 

[WickedCumminsCO]

*bdh*Dude we have tunned 1,000 hp on singles here in denver with the smarty on 2.6 chargers. Your trying to make a injector SMALL its not going to happen the smarty cant make your holes smaller.. Just like the smarty cant make a small injector BIG.. Ive tunned 6 trucks now with the ssr and zero issues with it.. Only issue you I have is having no effing clue that we are changing. Just watching power and spool go up. This is the only reason when sci/pci efi comes out I am switching! But even efi LIve is not going to make your BIG injectors drive like small and its not going to make small injectors BIG

*bdh**bdh**bdh**bdh*:what:*bdh**bdh*:what:*bdh**bdh**bdh*:what:

:cheer::cheer::tree::bang

 

[UNBROKEN]

Well hell....got some free time this weekend...guess I'm gonna load 1.6 and see what happens. If I'm gonna blow it up I might as well do it before it comes apart anyway this winter.

 

[Chris Mallett]

Well hell....got some free time this weekend...guess I'm gonna load 1.6 and see what happens. If I'm gonna blow it up I might as well do it before it comes apart anyway this winter.

Everything at 50?