SSR New Release Info and Results Thread...

Dockboy said:
And that makes it right?? Apparently not in your case!:doh:
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You're trying to make a point or being a tool? What turbo do I need to fix my ECU's inability to revert to 1.5 with out a recovery file?

Serious question Docboy: Do you even drive yours on the street anymore? Like daily drive traffic and other wise messing around with sports cars here and there?


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When folks say "good street manners" do you mean, keeping up with the prius, smoke free? Or 0-60 keeping up or beating that mustang to the next light for giggles cuz he gunned it half way though the intersection and you decided "What the heck" kinda of smoke free daily driven fun?
 
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I think a "smoke free" street manner tune is a mute point once you cross a certain line of performance mods. My combo will smoke with stock tuning. With however I set up the ssr, my right foot, gear selection and rpm still dictate the amount of smoke. I have less fuel than you and a smaller more responsive turbo, although its not a perfect match for air/ fuel, its alot more matched than your set up. I really think you're fighting a losing battle with what we (sci trucks) have for tuning options at the moment. Being you are dead set on sticking with big sticks and wanting some decent street performance, I think you need to be looking into some compounds this winter. I know I am. Lol

Also Im not denying the fact that your truck has some gremlins. Is it possible to put an 05 flash in the ecm to try?
 
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Jason you needed a recovery due to a chrysler software update for the 04.5 trucks. Thats it. nothing more nothing less
 
Greg....thanks! He won't listen...but you can try now.


I have no idea why Jason thinks he can get more hp with as little air without spray. Can't believe that turbo is alive still...
 
JasonCzerak said:
You're trying to make a point or being a tool? What turbo do I need to fix my ECU's inability to revert to 1.5 with out a recovery file?

Serious question Docboy: Do you even drive yours on the street anymore? Like daily drive traffic and other wise messing around with sports cars here and there?


---

When folks say "good street manners" do you mean, keeping up with the prius, smoke free? Or 0-60 keeping up or beating that mustang to the next light for giggles cuz he gunned it half way though the intersection and you decided "What the heck" kinda of smoke free daily driven fun?
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Get a S0-6 back and load the new TNT-R. Mine is a 04.5 and Marco's new tune is just about flawless on the bottom, hell you can daily drive it on kill like stock.

The stand alone still beats it on top, but the margin sure has narrowed.

Don't know about this recovery tune or if you need it to go back or if you even can after the SSR, but give it a shot, your turning circles here.
 
Bullchit. With real tuning and fuel limitation via map there is no need for smoke off boost or on.
 
:hehe:....Didn't say the SSR was real tuning......maybe the new toy coming out will be.

For the Dockboys and on a race rig, I don't doubt you can get a good curve and shine on the track....yet somehow they are surprised when there is a new release and the E.T improves.

On Jasons truck and the tuner your stuck with less injector would be so much easier to deal with, don't think that's been mentioned on this thread yet has it.......:hehe:
 
cquestad said:
Greg....thanks! He won't listen...but you can try now.


I have no idea why Jason thinks he can get more hp with as little air without spray. Can't believe that turbo is alive still...
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I know the max power limits, I'm at them, it runs well and ET/MPH show it's running well.. That's not the problem. Sure maybe try to figure out the extra 10hp would be nice... but that NEVER was the problem



Joesixpack said:
Get a S0-6 back and load the new TNT-R. Mine is a 04.5 and Marco's new tune is just about flawless on the bottom, hell you can daily drive it on kill like stock.

The stand alone still beats it on top, but the margin sure has narrowed.

Don't know about this recovery tune or if you need it to go back or if you even can after the SSR, but give it a shot, your turning circles here.
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Actually, I was going to barrow one after this weekend for a day to see how the new TNT/R works out.. The old TNT/R was impossible to drive. The SSR is hands down winner next to that old TNT/R. I bet i'll find the same results you have.

I loaded up 1.5. Short of the rattles (ON LLT 12!) and a little surge, the SOTP dyno shows higher putzing around driving aggressive though traffic.

Joesixpack said:
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On Jasons truck and the tuner your stuck with less injector would be so much easier to deal with, don't think that's been mentioned on this thread yet has it.......:hehe:
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I'm sure, they were way to big for the old TNT/R. The SSR helped, A LOT. But there's no reason software can't tame things.
 
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Dockboy said:
Huh????

I ran my fastest pass by .24 tenths with 1.6b and the rpms never dropped below 2800.
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I also had really good high end results with 1.6b. I picked up about 90hp with 1.6b over 1.5. With the settings we finally settled on it made an average of 1003hp (corrected), between 2800rpm and 3400rpm. Hp was still climbing at 3400rpm.

I did make one pull with the old TNT/R, with the settings I used to use when racing. It made less then I made with 1.5.

Paul
 
Let's break it down a little Paul. I know you drive yours on the street some...what are the street manners of your race tune?
I only drive mine every other weekend or so...so I haven't tried this tune the smoke away stuff for quite a while. I just set it on kill and go.
Do you, or how much do you detune for street driving?
 
JasonCzerak said:
Ummm I ran my fastest times with 1.6b. I'd agree there's more power under the curve in my optimal RPM range. It's kinda funky to explain but to get my best ET's with 1.5, I need to shift closer to 3600-3700rpm, especially getting into OD to stay out of the surge zone and in the "HighLevel" range that was obvious with the dyno graphs to come in around 2700rpm.
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Jason,

You should only drop about 500rpm between gear changes. Did I read that right and you are going from 3700rpm to 2700rpm?

You probably already know this, but I'll state it anyway for those that don't. You want to shift at an rpm that will keep you on the high rpm side of peak torque. If you let the rpm get below peak torque after the shift, you will likely "bark" the turbo. Keeping the rpm after the shift close to peak torque, will allow the engine to recover quicker. Once in OD, then allow the engine to run on out, through the finish line. With your 73 exhaust wheel, your peak torque will likely be a little higher then mine. You will also have more of a tendency to "bark" it.

The "surge zone" which I think Swole reported first, was fixed with version 1.2. It really wasn't based on an rpm, but the fact of a rapid change in rpm between gears. I had data logs of that happening, and those same conditions do not exist anymore.

If you look at my dyno graphs, you would be hard to find the transition from the LL setting to the HL ones.

Paul
 
UNBROKEN said:
Let's break it down a little Paul. I know you drive yours on the street some...what are the street manners of your race tune?
I only drive mine every other weekend or so...so I haven't tried this tune the smoke away stuff for quite a while. I just set it on kill and go.
Do you, or how much do you detune for street driving?
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I am still daily driving the settings that I dyno'd on, with the exception of changing the shift defuel to stock. I personally like to drive the same settings that I race at. Changing how the pedal "feels" makes it harder to build boost consistently at the track. I pretty much set it on kill as well, and control the go, with my right foot.

Once the snow really hits though, I plan on lowering the LL settings. I was planning on dropping my LLRail settings for street driving, but 25 doesn't seem to have caused a problem at all during cruise.

I actually drive it on the street quite a bit. I have over 24,000 miles on the engine, which if I remember correctly I put it in about a year and a half ago. As Dockboy has pointed out in the past, driving a 1000hp truck on the street can be dangerous. You've really got to be able to control the right foot.

Paul
 
After my winter rebuild I have planned I'm not so sure 1000 hp is a good idea.
Adding a p&p head, side draft intake, Hamilton 188/220 cam and more injector...plus cutting the truck down to a single cab short bed. Most of those weigh in around 5500 lbs.
Light weight/ short wheelbase and high power can be a handful.
 
paulb said:
Jason,

You should only drop about 500rpm between gear changes. Did I read that right and you are going from 3700rpm to 2700rpm?

You probably already know this, but I'll state it anyway for those that don't. You want to shift at an rpm that will keep you on the high rpm side of peak torque. If you let the rpm get below peak torque after the shift, you will likely "bark" the turbo. Keeping the rpm after the shift close to peak torque, will allow the engine to recover quicker. Once in OD, then allow the engine to run on out, through the finish line. With your 73 exhaust wheel, your peak torque will likely be a little higher then mine. You will also have more of a tendency to "bark" it.

The "surge zone" which I think Swole reported first, was fixed with version 1.2. It really wasn't based on an rpm, but the fact of a rapid change in rpm between gears. I had data logs of that happening, and those same conditions do not exist anymore.

If you look at my dyno graphs, you would be hard to find the transition from the LL setting to the HL ones.

Paul
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Paul, can you say that a little louder for Dockboy please? :) I'm doing just that, keeping it in the curve based on my graphs. Shifting where Dockboy thinks I should shift is obviously wrong.

I would of clicked the OD button had I didn't have to merge in the video... hehe.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X27Oi148JTw"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X27Oi148JTw[/ame]

In 1.6, it stopped at 3900 after creaping up to it. Take my word for this with 1.6. It stopped pulling at 3600-3700 and took it's sweet time to get to 3900 and hung out there, I was on the throttle a lot longer. This video shows it running up to 4000 and hitting a wall, like it should.

The Surge Zone Paul, It's still there in 1.5. With the auto it's only manageable because OD is a different gearing. at just over 80mph it starts to get annoying where as with the manual it was closer to 75 where I normally drive day to day. With 1.6 it's virtually gone.

Jeff/Snedge has some new temp sensors in the mail for me to try out (Thanks Jeff! you rock!) and we'll if things change.

Thus far, 1.5 is faster daily driving but more rattles. 1.6 smoother, less rattles lacks top end power that I really don't need. I'm sad that I couldn't get to 1.5 re-loaded for the last day at he track, I bet 1.5 would of been faster since after taking suggestions from this thread on lowing the LLD was key, however that concept did pay off with 1.6 but the lack of power in the last few hundred rpm possibly could of added up to a few fractions of a second.
 
UNBROKEN said:
After my winter rebuild I have planned I'm not so sure 1000 hp is a good idea.
Adding a p&p head, side draft intake, Hamilton 188/220 cam and more injector...plus cutting the truck down to a single cab short bed. Most of those weigh in around 5500 lbs.
Light weight/ short wheelbase and high power can be a handful.
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Sounds like fun! :-)

My 05 with a 1000hp, is easier to drive then my 02, with the comp box turned up, and it only makes 638hp. I bought a 95 new, and did a few mods to it. Probably 300hp, and I know it was harder to drive. Very old school. Sure was fun though.

Paul
 
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