SSR New Release Info and Results Thread...
- Thread starter Big Swole
- Start date
estrada5.9
New member
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Old screen shot....Bad pic from my old pos iphone...
Just a reminder as to where "Close to Stock" Settings are from Marco himself..
Pic posted was asked for by another member here...
This the close to stock setting
don't have one yet but someday soon i hope
bobcat67
New member
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- Dec 15, 2008
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your setup isn't incredibly different from what a couple guys on here have, I have a dyno day scheduled for saturday to really get it dialed in to what works best for me, which is the way I think you have to do it
gecoveyc
Diesel Nut
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- Jan 25, 2008
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Yessir I have a date with the dyno as well. I'm just trying to start experimenting with it because I had to ship off my S06 today to a guy that bought it and needed to get the new one on there. Which individual should I talk too that has a similar setup to compare settings?
homewrecker
gear jammer
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- Oct 23, 2007
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The rp settings are mild in my opinion. Im running lrp 25 and hrp 40. Those settings don't come close to what my mp-8 at 50% was like.
25kpsi is the highest I've seen on any setting including 50
Sent from my DROIDX
I've tried up to 35 llrp , and even just a touch of the throttle it was like wot. I was messing with the POD at the time as well. I keep mine at llrp 19 right now, just because I really haven't felt any difference past that. The only time I've seen past 25k was on a dyno. The rp gauge was blinking at 27k.
gecoveyc
Diesel Nut
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- Jan 25, 2008
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Holy crap I like this thing. Just took the truck to lunch and back. Builds boost out of nothing and is even smoother power than the regular smarty. I tweeked a couple things. I had the LLD set at 30 and it was pretty hardcore smoky if the turbo wasn't spooled. Lowered the RP a little and lowered the LLD to 20 for now
gecoveyc
Diesel Nut
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- Jan 25, 2008
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- 507
I like the settings I have it at currently. Just a few minor changes and it'll be good to go till I get it on the dyno I think.
The only problem is there is still quite a bit of smoke so correct me if I'm wrong but that means I need to lower duration?
The other is that at WOT in 6th towards the end of the gear something starts popping in the motor. Any thoughts on that one?
The only problem is there is still quite a bit of smoke so correct me if I'm wrong but that means I need to lower duration?
The other is that at WOT in 6th towards the end of the gear something starts popping in the motor. Any thoughts on that one?
JasonCzerak
Active member
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- Aug 10, 2006
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So I got some numbers... Meh.
I'll scan the graphs in tomorrow afternoon. Figured I'd get some text out here
I don't think loading the truck up at only 20psi was enough for the low end numbers, Seemed to make full boost well at about 2500rpm as best I can tell. Spools faster and 5psi higher from 20psi on the street then on the dyno.
Peek numbers were 656@3000 and 1140@3000. Carried 640-ish to 3500 and fell to 600 at 3650. This was in 5th gear. I was planning on taking it easy on the trans using 5th for the initial pulls.
The best settings were actually what I figured from street driving to be honest. 12/20/21 30/30/26
I lowered the HLD to 20 and you can see a definite drop in the line, higher then 28 and there was no difference. Same with the timing.
The low level. I think there's some operator error in there potentially. He was loading it up to 20psi and just going WOT. On the street, this is still smokey-ish but if you roll into it it's clean.
I tried a higher TQ, like 2, no difference in power. Left the TQ at 1 for the most part.
So for a 110% over sticks, dual pumps and a 66mm charger at 53psi (58 street)... 656 sound low to you guys?
does to me. Unless I have another problem, maybe the stock cam is wearing? something else about to blow?
Well on the topic of wear and blowing up. 3 of the 5th gear pulls showed signs of clutch slippage, one pull you could smell that ceramic smell. I switched things up to 6th and all was better. If anything I hope it's just the clutch giving up as to why these numbers looks wrong. No signs on the street tho, drives perfectly fine.
The weird part about 5th vs 6th... The numbers were the same... HP didn't increase, torque didn't decrease..
As for this dyno. Correction numbers are a factor. So if you take the actual "number" out of the picture and use it as a tool, the high level is about as good as it's going to get. The low end, could use some help. I have another approach on the low I'm going to toy with and find a dynojet to compare these "numbers" as well
On another note:
I got the pleasure to take a little red short box twined truck for a spin. Now that's a fun little toy!
I'll scan the graphs in tomorrow afternoon. Figured I'd get some text out here
I don't think loading the truck up at only 20psi was enough for the low end numbers, Seemed to make full boost well at about 2500rpm as best I can tell. Spools faster and 5psi higher from 20psi on the street then on the dyno.
Peek numbers were 656@3000 and 1140@3000. Carried 640-ish to 3500 and fell to 600 at 3650. This was in 5th gear. I was planning on taking it easy on the trans using 5th for the initial pulls.
The best settings were actually what I figured from street driving to be honest. 12/20/21 30/30/26
I lowered the HLD to 20 and you can see a definite drop in the line, higher then 28 and there was no difference. Same with the timing.
The low level. I think there's some operator error in there potentially. He was loading it up to 20psi and just going WOT. On the street, this is still smokey-ish but if you roll into it it's clean.
I tried a higher TQ, like 2, no difference in power. Left the TQ at 1 for the most part.
So for a 110% over sticks, dual pumps and a 66mm charger at 53psi (58 street)... 656 sound low to you guys?
does to me. Unless I have another problem, maybe the stock cam is wearing? something else about to blow?Well on the topic of wear and blowing up. 3 of the 5th gear pulls showed signs of clutch slippage, one pull you could smell that ceramic smell. I switched things up to 6th and all was better. If anything I hope it's just the clutch giving up as to why these numbers looks wrong. No signs on the street tho, drives perfectly fine.
The weird part about 5th vs 6th... The numbers were the same... HP didn't increase, torque didn't decrease..
As for this dyno. Correction numbers are a factor. So if you take the actual "number" out of the picture and use it as a tool, the high level is about as good as it's going to get. The low end, could use some help. I have another approach on the low I'm going to toy with and find a dynojet to compare these "numbers" as well
On another note:
I got the pleasure to take a little red short box twined truck for a spin.
Now that's a fun little toy!
Last edited:
Cummin-a-long
Big Angry
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- Jul 24, 2008
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- 787
The dyno operator should have been able to tell if there was wheel spin or clutch slippage.
All you have to do is look at the wheel speed gain vs RPM gain and you'll see slippage issues.
What is the LPH rating on those sticks. This 110%, 80% over, 40% over crap doesn't tell ya what the sticks actually are. They should be rated at a given LPH.
If those 110% over sticks are the size I think they are, around 50 LPH, they are WAY too big for a single 66. Hell, my little 37 LPH sticks carried it out to 800 with the twins and I'm out of fuel once that 80 comes to full song. Even if I try to match it up to that 80, the biggest I'd put in it would be 45 LPH nozzles. With the size sticks you're running, you've got enough fuel for 800 - 900 HP.
You're probably drowning the flame front in the lower RPM's with that much fuel and that little air.
Also, what dyno was it and what did he have the load set to on the Eddy brake? 20 psi to 53 psi sounds like there wasn't enough load on it. Going from 20, that turbo should have easily come well into the 60's by the end of the run.
When I load the dyno so that it actually sees the trucks weight, I have no issue hitting high 70's / low 80's.
All you gotta do to get the load right is put the truck on the road in whatever gear you plan to do the pulls with and do a 40 - 70 roll at full throttle and see how long it takes to do that.
Then, strap it to the dyno, set it for steady state load holding and do a few pulls until you get the time it takes from 40 - 70 to match up close to the street time.
That's going to get you as close to the trucks weight as possible and actually put a true load on the motor.
Otherwise, the timing values that you get set on the dyno are gonna be too high and you'll get the detonation the first time you get it on the road / track and smash on it.
All you have to do is look at the wheel speed gain vs RPM gain and you'll see slippage issues.
What is the LPH rating on those sticks. This 110%, 80% over, 40% over crap doesn't tell ya what the sticks actually are. They should be rated at a given LPH.
If those 110% over sticks are the size I think they are, around 50 LPH, they are WAY too big for a single 66. Hell, my little 37 LPH sticks carried it out to 800 with the twins and I'm out of fuel once that 80 comes to full song. Even if I try to match it up to that 80, the biggest I'd put in it would be 45 LPH nozzles. With the size sticks you're running, you've got enough fuel for 800 - 900 HP.
You're probably drowning the flame front in the lower RPM's with that much fuel and that little air.
Also, what dyno was it and what did he have the load set to on the Eddy brake? 20 psi to 53 psi sounds like there wasn't enough load on it. Going from 20, that turbo should have easily come well into the 60's by the end of the run.
When I load the dyno so that it actually sees the trucks weight, I have no issue hitting high 70's / low 80's.
All you gotta do to get the load right is put the truck on the road in whatever gear you plan to do the pulls with and do a 40 - 70 roll at full throttle and see how long it takes to do that.
Then, strap it to the dyno, set it for steady state load holding and do a few pulls until you get the time it takes from 40 - 70 to match up close to the street time.
That's going to get you as close to the trucks weight as possible and actually put a true load on the motor.
Otherwise, the timing values that you get set on the dyno are gonna be too high and you'll get the detonation the first time you get it on the road / track and smash on it.
Last edited:
Cummin-a-long
Big Angry
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- Jul 24, 2008
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For you guys planning on hitting the dyno, MAKE SURE it has an Eddy brake or AT LEAST has the larger 48" drum.
If it has the smaller 24" drum that weighs 2200 lbs and doesn't have a brake, you're wasting your time. If it has the larger 48" roller that weighs 6000 lbs, you'll get better results, but for most 3rd gen trucks, that's still too light and your numbers will be lower than actual and the curve will be "peaky".
On a 2200 roller with no brake, I can't even get the truck over 40 psi and it'll barely make 600 hp and torque is usually in the 1100 - 1200 range. It'll blow through the run in less than 2 seconds.
If you're on a DynoJet, with a 2200 lb roller, setting the brake at 30% - 35% is pretty close to actual weight of a 3rd Gen Quad Cab. MegaCab and Long Bed trucks need 32% - 37% as they are closer to 8000 lbs. Setting the load up at 100% is like adding 1500 retarding ft/lbs and you can stall a 600 HP truck.
My truck, with me in it, is 7380 lbs. If you can't simulate the load, you're not getting accurate tuning.
Numbers are one thing and everyone and their friggin brother will contest peak numbers, but getting the smooth curve and usable power at WOT is the key. Everything else is beer drinking bragging.
Sure, these runs made good PEAK power, but it's unusable BS.....
These runs made slightly more peak, but are totally usable...
Almost all of that was weeded out in the LL settings. Under 3000 RPM's those have more effect than the HL settings. Setting those LL numbers on the street isn't going to get you good results.
If it has the smaller 24" drum that weighs 2200 lbs and doesn't have a brake, you're wasting your time. If it has the larger 48" roller that weighs 6000 lbs, you'll get better results, but for most 3rd gen trucks, that's still too light and your numbers will be lower than actual and the curve will be "peaky".
On a 2200 roller with no brake, I can't even get the truck over 40 psi and it'll barely make 600 hp and torque is usually in the 1100 - 1200 range. It'll blow through the run in less than 2 seconds.
If you're on a DynoJet, with a 2200 lb roller, setting the brake at 30% - 35% is pretty close to actual weight of a 3rd Gen Quad Cab. MegaCab and Long Bed trucks need 32% - 37% as they are closer to 8000 lbs. Setting the load up at 100% is like adding 1500 retarding ft/lbs and you can stall a 600 HP truck.
My truck, with me in it, is 7380 lbs. If you can't simulate the load, you're not getting accurate tuning.
Numbers are one thing and everyone and their friggin brother will contest peak numbers, but getting the smooth curve and usable power at WOT is the key. Everything else is beer drinking bragging.
Sure, these runs made good PEAK power, but it's unusable BS.....
These runs made slightly more peak, but are totally usable...
Almost all of that was weeded out in the LL settings. Under 3000 RPM's those have more effect than the HL settings. Setting those LL numbers on the street isn't going to get you good results.
Last edited:
Cummin-a-long
Big Angry
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- Jul 24, 2008
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- 787
My advice, running a stock cam, concentrate on the LL settings.
A stock cam falls on it's face over 3000 RPM's anyways.
A stock cam falls on it's face over 3000 RPM's anyways.
JasonCzerak
Active member
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- Aug 10, 2006
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- 14,827
My first SSR dyno results (they suck! 
)
The dyno I made these pulls on is a Dyno Dynamics. The first time I used this place almost 2 years ago, John@floorit chatted with the shop owner and went over the difference between diesel and gasser on this dyno. He didn't have any of the load or other numbers anymore (acceleration rate number?) .So went with his his typical numbers. This shop supposedly had access to a dyno jet and a set of different cars for a while and dynoed the cars on the dynojet and his new dyno to set the correction factors to be as close as possible. Plus, as you may recall from my earlier post that there was no real tach pickup, wheel speed to rpm matching. I did not get a wheel speed print out (d'oh!)
The above plus the lack of low end loading was for the most part a recipe for failure out of the gate.
I will call on Monday to see if they can send me an export of excel data for my runs with all the data. Make my own graphs!
I've scheduled at least an hour with a dynojet this afternoon to compare a few of the data. Maybe a little tuning.
Injector data:
180MPa, 2800Us, 370MM3
160MPa, 1700uS, 205MM3
The low RPM and big sticks:
I'm with you if you go from 10psi to WOT and it's a smoke show, but the way I had it tuned on the street after 10psi, it comes up so fast, it's just a puff on the street and away the truck goes. LL settings 12 on timing, 21 on duration.
How do the big twin'ed trucks handle this? At 10psi, I have the same 10psi. single 66 or huge twins. Wouldn't the LL tuning to light the changers be similar?
I think the SSR still comes down to how you roll the throttle in. Just like the TNT and TNT/R. If this was a MAP based tune until boost is outa the 45psi range of the sensor.....
As for the stock cam. when the numbers were showing peek at 3000.... But as I increased the low end fueling we got less power. as I lowered low end fueling, I got less power.
Boost:
I've never been on a dyno where boost was exactly that as on the street, always down 5psi. the one exception was a bad day on a dynojet years ago when boost was down 25psi or and made a similar graph as the one I got last night... hmm.
I think I covered all the points I needed. if not, let me know. I'm all about open info with these things.
Link to all graphs:
Picasa Web Albums - Jason - SSR Dyno Sess...
First and best pull:
SSR: 12/20/21 30/30/26 - 5th gear
TNTR #9 timing 2. Single 64, single stage 4 cp3 (when I had it at the time) and smaller injectors, 85% over
Was defiantly loaded differently.
Setting notes:
My plan was to try to use that first base line as a reference since it was the best pull. The others seem to be consistent but lower, heat soak? most likly.
Gear TQ LLT LLR LLD HHT HHR HHD WHP WTQ Pull # Boost Drive
5 1 12 20 21 30 30 26 656 1140 1 and 2 50 60
5 1 18 20 26 32 30 30 646 1086 3 50 60
5 1 15 20 18 34 30 26 658 1094 4 50 60
5 1 12 20 19 28 30 24 5 50 60
5 1 12 20 21 30 30 26 6 50 60
6 1 12 20 21 30 30 26 7 53 60
6 1 10 20 21 28 30 26 8 10-psi and 9 20psi 53 60
6 2 12 20 21 28 30 26 10 11 ? 53 60
6 1 12 20 22 26 30 20 12 20psi and 13 10 psi 53 60
6 1 12 20 21 30 30 18 14 and 15 53 60
(hint, if you quote my post to reply to it, the above info is spaced correctly to read easier)
I'll detail a few other graphs later.
)The dyno I made these pulls on is a Dyno Dynamics. The first time I used this place almost 2 years ago, John@floorit chatted with the shop owner and went over the difference between diesel and gasser on this dyno. He didn't have any of the load or other numbers anymore (acceleration rate number?) .So went with his his typical numbers. This shop supposedly had access to a dyno jet and a set of different cars for a while and dynoed the cars on the dynojet and his new dyno to set the correction factors to be as close as possible. Plus, as you may recall from my earlier post that there was no real tach pickup, wheel speed to rpm matching. I did not get a wheel speed print out (d'oh!)
The above plus the lack of low end loading was for the most part a recipe for failure out of the gate.
I will call on Monday to see if they can send me an export of excel data for my runs with all the data. Make my own graphs!
I've scheduled at least an hour with a dynojet this afternoon to compare a few of the data. Maybe a little tuning.
Injector data:
180MPa, 2800Us, 370MM3
160MPa, 1700uS, 205MM3
The low RPM and big sticks:
I'm with you if you go from 10psi to WOT and it's a smoke show, but the way I had it tuned on the street after 10psi, it comes up so fast, it's just a puff on the street and away the truck goes. LL settings 12 on timing, 21 on duration.
How do the big twin'ed trucks handle this? At 10psi, I have the same 10psi. single 66 or huge twins. Wouldn't the LL tuning to light the changers be similar?
I think the SSR still comes down to how you roll the throttle in. Just like the TNT and TNT/R. If this was a MAP based tune until boost is outa the 45psi range of the sensor.....
As for the stock cam. when the numbers were showing peek at 3000.... But as I increased the low end fueling we got less power. as I lowered low end fueling, I got less power.
Boost:
I've never been on a dyno where boost was exactly that as on the street, always down 5psi. the one exception was a bad day on a dynojet years ago when boost was down 25psi or and made a similar graph as the one I got last night... hmm.
I think I covered all the points I needed. if not, let me know. I'm all about open info with these things.
Link to all graphs:
Picasa Web Albums - Jason - SSR Dyno Sess...
First and best pull:
SSR: 12/20/21 30/30/26 - 5th gear
TNTR #9 timing 2. Single 64, single stage 4 cp3 (when I had it at the time) and smaller injectors, 85% over
Was defiantly loaded differently.
Setting notes:
My plan was to try to use that first base line as a reference since it was the best pull. The others seem to be consistent but lower, heat soak? most likly.
Gear TQ LLT LLR LLD HHT HHR HHD WHP WTQ Pull # Boost Drive
5 1 12 20 21 30 30 26 656 1140 1 and 2 50 60
5 1 18 20 26 32 30 30 646 1086 3 50 60
5 1 15 20 18 34 30 26 658 1094 4 50 60
5 1 12 20 19 28 30 24 5 50 60
5 1 12 20 21 30 30 26 6 50 60
6 1 12 20 21 30 30 26 7 53 60
6 1 10 20 21 28 30 26 8 10-psi and 9 20psi 53 60
6 2 12 20 21 28 30 26 10 11 ? 53 60
6 1 12 20 22 26 30 20 12 20psi and 13 10 psi 53 60
6 1 12 20 21 30 30 18 14 and 15 53 60
(hint, if you quote my post to reply to it, the above info is spaced correctly to read easier)
I'll detail a few other graphs later.
Last edited:
JasonCzerak
Active member
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2006
- Messages
- 14,827
With the ssr I've been very focused into the 10psi min, fast roll on for traffic. I wanted minimal smoke, quick spool and quick reaction, doing that with minimal rattle is what I have been focused on.
phase two? i never felt the need to load the truck on the brake on the road... per suggestion from Cummin-a-long I bumped up the LL. held the brake, made 50psi quickly.... smoke free... hmmm
more LL coming up..
phase two? i never felt the need to load the truck on the brake on the road... per suggestion from Cummin-a-long I bumped up the LL. held the brake, made 50psi quickly.... smoke free... hmmm
more LL coming up..