SSR New Release Info and Results Thread...

first pull on the dynojet, 699@97mph. no tach pickup for time reasons.

my first time driving on a dyno jet :) I think found my new dyno shop if I can drive my self. w00t.

Same lowend problem. working on the LL numbers now.
 
15/40/22
28/28/26

I haven't played with the higher rail settings yet on 1.3 until today. it's not as bad as 1.1 was. the low end rail is manageable. high end needs to be kept low.

anywho. I'm done on dynos for awhile. was fun. I'll let Marco update the software a few times and hit the load dyno with John@floorits configuration. gaining 50hp on a dynojet with a foot break as my only method to load the charger and only maintaining 50psi is enough info for me to prove John's dyno isn't always reading high...so, any rumors/talk around that is void IMHO.

I think I'll need new rear brake pads :) It wasn't easy to be consistent and not destroys the breaks. most pulls started around 50. hard to tell.

no print out. printer was broke.

second dyno that broke while I was on it.. easy fix this time, broken fan in the power supply, computer kept locking.
a6898da2-4f1f-0ef4.jpg



The best runs:
a6898da2-4f85-ba56.jpg
 
That Dip before the last gain. Is that due to pre-loading the truck or software bug?

If I add "more" or "less" to what I have I lose power. the exception is timing, if I bump it to 18, but slowly build boost, it runs very well, in fact that 711 was with LLT18, on the drive home I kept getting rattle at various accelerations. That falls in line with what Marco detailed on the instructions as far as dyno vs the road timing values.
 
Well I dynoed my truck last Friday at TS. Me personally, I'm not the happiest with the results, but considering I was about 20psi shy on the dyno compared to the street I guess it's not too bad. I am still running the original SSR program that the Smarty came with, as I have not updated to the new software. The truck did 756hp and 1321tq with the boost spiking to 60psi and then dropping to 57-58psi. Below are the setting I am running. I haven't had time to mess with the setting too much, I just got the truck back together 2 days before TS because of a cracked injector.

LLT-25
HLT-30
LLRP-30
HLRP-35
LLD-28
HLD-30



Cummin-a-long said:
For you guys planning on hitting the dyno, MAKE SURE it has an Eddy brake or AT LEAST has the larger 48" drum.

If it has the smaller 24" drum that weighs 2200 lbs and doesn't have a brake, you're wasting your time. If it has the larger 48" roller that weighs 6000 lbs, you'll get better results, but for most 3rd gen trucks, that's still too light and your numbers will be lower than actual and the curve will be "peaky".

On a 2200 roller with no brake, I can't even get the truck over 40 psi and it'll barely make 600 hp and torque is usually in the 1100 - 1200 range. It'll blow through the run in less than 2 seconds.

If you're on a DynoJet, with a 2200 lb roller, setting the brake at 30% - 35% is pretty close to actual weight of a 3rd Gen Quad Cab. MegaCab and Long Bed trucks need 32% - 37% as they are closer to 8000 lbs. Setting the load up at 100% is like adding 1500 retarding ft/lbs and you can stall a 600 HP truck.

My truck, with me in it, is 7380 lbs. If you can't simulate the load, you're not getting accurate tuning.

Numbers are one thing and everyone and their friggin brother will contest peak numbers, but getting the smooth curve and usable power at WOT is the key. Everything else is beer drinking bragging.

Sure, these runs made good PEAK power, but it's unusable BS.....

LowEndTuningChop-07May2011.jpg


These runs made slightly more peak, but are totally usable...

Nitrousvsnonitrous.jpg


Almost all of that was weeded out in the LL settings. Under 3000 RPM's those have more effect than the HL settings. Setting those LL numbers on the street isn't going to get you good results.
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Is it safe to say a DynoJet 224XLC has the 24" drum? I found a local shop that has the model dyno and I was wondering if I would be wasting my time running on it? Any certain question I need to ask about the dyno when I call back?
 
JasonCzerak said:
15/40/22
28/28/26
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So since I have smaller injectors, single wicked stage 3 CP3, and a 62 instead of a 66 how should I adjust my timing and durations numbers compared to the bigger stuff. Lower timing and duration or raise it?
 
gecoveyc said:
So since I have smaller injectors, single wicked stage 3 CP3, and a 62 instead of a 66 how should I adjust my timing and durations numbers compared to the bigger stuff. Lower timing and duration or raise it?
Click to expand...

If I'm not mistaken, higher on both accounts.
 
JasonCzerak said:
If I'm not mistaken, higher on both accounts.
Click to expand...

Correct.

You're making less boost, which means you can increase the timing without getting detonation due to extra heat from the compression.

That also let's you increase the duration because you are increase to total time you have to available with the timing bump. It won't be much more duration, but you'll get a little.

First, do a few pulls just to get the rail pressure where you want. Once you're happy with the rail pressure, start bringing in the timing. If you hear any detonation at full song, back it off 2 - 3 numbers.

Once that's dialed in, bring in the duration until 1 - the smoke is controllable and 2 - the EGT's aren't through the roof.

Once you make those bigger 5 - 10 number adjustments to get in the ball park, the 1 and 2 number adjustment make money.
 
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95civic2005 said:
Well I dynoed my truck last Friday at TS. Me personally, I'm not the happiest with the results, but considering I was about 20psi shy on the dyno compared to the street I guess it's not too bad. I am still running the original SSR program that the Smarty came with, as I have not updated to the new software. The truck did 756hp and 1321tq with the boost spiking to 60psi and then dropping to 57-58psi. Below are the setting I am running. I haven't had time to mess with the setting too much, I just got the truck back together 2 days before TS because of a cracked injector.

Is it safe to say a DynoJet 224XLC has the 24" drum? I found a local shop that has the model dyno and I was wondering if I would be wasting my time running on it? Any certain question I need to ask about the dyno when I call back?
Click to expand...

Make sure it has an Eddy brake.

Also, ask the operator what the total brake load is that it can apply. If it can't generate enough load to equal the weight of the truck, or at least get close, you're wasting your time.

The 242xLc that I normally run on has enough brake load to stall a 600 hp truck when it's in 1:1 drive. It'll generate almost 1500 ft/lbs of retarding brake if it's at 100%.

Like I was saying earlier, if it's a shop that knows how to run diesels, you'll be okay. If not, you're in for a steep learning curve trying to get it dialed in.

Whatever gear you plan to dyno the truck in, get on the road in that gear and brake load it to whatever boost you plan to do your run at (launch psi is a good start point) and do a 40 - 70 MPH roll at WOT and see how long that takes.

Then, you strap the truck to the rollers and you increase the load cell numbers until it takes approx the same time on the rollers as it did on the road. This is as close as you're going to get because you can actually set the resistance at, in my case, 7380 lbs.

24", 48"....doesn't matter it it has the Eddy brake. No brake....you're tossing money out the window.
 
Cummin-a-long said:
Make sure it has an Eddy brake.

Also, ask the operator what the total brake load is that it can apply. If it can't generate enough load to equal the weight of the truck, or at least get close, you're wasting your time.

The 242xLc that I normally run on has enough brake load to stall a 600 hp truck when it's in 1:1 drive. It'll generate almost 1500 ft/lbs of retarding brake if it's at 100%.

Like I was saying earlier, if it's a shop that knows how to run diesels, you'll be okay. If not, you're in for a steep learning curve trying to get it dialed in.

Whatever gear you plan to dyno the truck in, get on the road in that gear and brake load it to whatever boost you plan to do your run at (launch psi is a good start point) and do a 40 - 70 MPH roll at WOT and see how long that takes.

Then, you strap the truck to the rollers and you increase the load cell numbers until it takes approx the same time on the rollers as it did on the road. This is as close as you're going to get because you can actually set the resistance at, in my case, 7380 lbs.

24", 48"....doesn't matter it it has the Eddy brake. No brake....you're tossing money out the window.
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OK. Thanks for the info!
 
Okay, I got 6 passes in yesterday to validate the tuning.

Passes 3 and 4 were launching the truck exactly how I do on the dyno, going from 20 psi to the floor mat.

7.31 and 7.32 on the 1/8th in a 7380 lb truck translates to 797 HP to the wheels, so that should validate how setting up the dyno to the weight of your truck is gonna pretty damn accurate. That's within 3 HP of what I do on the dyno.

7.31 / 7.32 is 11.45 - 11.50 on the 1/4.

And, BTW, running this SSR tune, the truck was a full 1/10th faster than my best EVER run on TNT/R and the truck ran perfect. WOT and the temps never went above 1450 and it was HOT yesterday. Track temp was high 140's - high 150's all day.

The hand jamned numbers off to the side were the launch PSI and the TQ management settings I was playing with. Otherwise, the tune was exactly as it was on the dyno.

Now it's time to put the fat bastard on a diet.

22May2011TTRuns.jpg
 
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Been thinking about this low end approach more. I had to keep lowering my rail, hangs way to long over llr30 or hld30 on even the lowend. might even go lower yet

new approach
TQ stock
15/28/30 - this made boost very easy and very clean until some point in the rpm band it got lights out smokey! woops

moved to 18/28/30 as I type this.

my thinking here is based on the dyno runs. I couldn't get it to light with higher timing and duration, peddal sensitivity! so I bumped the low end to tntr #7 for a start.
 
Jason, this is just me thinking out loud, but with the size of your injectors, that's not enough rail pressure....that's where that smoke show is coming from.

You're bouncing around alot on these settings and it makes it tough to dial in any one specific parameter. 1 - 2 number changes on each parameter and make a pull, small change, make a pull, small change, make a pull.

One hour on the dyno won't dial it in. Hell, just with the time it takes to re-flash and let the the turbos cool a bit, you can only get about 6 good pulls in an hour and still be consitent.

If I'm tuning, I PLAN on AT LEAST 3 hours at a time. The first time tuning this SSR took me almost 6 hours. BUT, it pays off in the end. You're not screwing around trying this and that for weeks on end trying to do it on the road.

Bite the bullet, schedule the time and READ the dyno sheets and note the changes on each pull.
 
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Interesting how that Torque management plays a role.

with the 18/28/30 there was a bit of rattle under the charger, was a bit smokier accelerating under the charger, took a tad longer to get on top of the charger. WOT made a touch less boost on a spike and the boost fell off and it picked up power at 2800.. just like the dyno run, all in 6th.

I'll play with stock TQ and higher numbers for the next few days. Sounds like promising approach. But for the most part TQ 0 (stock) 15/28/30 feels like 15/28/22 with TQ on 1 and stock TQ seemed to rattle a touch less. Very smooth. I was able to pick up the charger on 1/4 throttle-ish to 58psi with out the brake. :) That's a good thing and a bad thing I think, not enough timing underload? I need to start watching EGT's a bit..

I sure hope that top end isn't messed with much going down to stock torque vs TQ1. For sure going from TQ1 to TQ2 on the dyno made zero increase, if anything made a bit less power.

Funny, today's data kinda negates all the previous data thus far as far as low end. Max boost that can been seen on Stock torque, etc,etc,etc.

I love and hate this tuning. :) hahahhaha
 
What I was doing with the torque management was trying to overfuel it bit on the bottom so I could spray it off the line until the big charger lit.

What I was doing was launching 1st, hitting 2nd and immediately locking the TC and spraying it until the boost hit 70 psi and then I'd cut the nitrous.

Bumping up the TQM management seemed to give it just enough overfuel to use the nitrous on the bottom. When I had the TQM set lower, when I'd leave the smoke cleared by the 60 ft mark.
 
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