SSR New Release Info and Results Thread...

I thought about trying the pod today but declined. Will try tomorrow and see if it is a single problem or mine as well.
 
How is he gonna share settings when every single truck is different.

Hell...I talked to Jason for a while tonight about the higher LLT he's been running. I decided to give it a shot...just not with his exact numbers.
And he had to listen to me shoot a cat but that's a whole nother story. LOL
 
ohh I'm sure there's some theory he can suggestion

tho. no matter what direction I go, the off boost smoke is impossible to get ride of
 
JasonCzerak said:
ohh I'm sure there's some theory he can suggestion

tho. no matter what direction I go, the off boost smoke is impossible to get ride of
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Jason, no matter what you do, combine big sticks and big turbos and you're gonna have some smoke trying to get it lit. Running a moderate size single with some pretty damn healthy sticks is gonna make some smoke.

On mine, even with the smaller top charger and my 37 LPH sticks, I still get a haze on acceleration, but if I'm not driving like a 'tard, it clears up within a few seconds. If I bog the motor, like right when it locks the TC in 4th gear and roll into the throttle it'll cloud pretty good; there's just no boost to clear it up under those conditions.

The main problem is that the rail pressure, timing and duration settings on the SSR are "blanket" settings. It's not like you can go in and say, "In this RPM range, I want XX timing, XX RP, XX duration. In this range, I want XXX and here I want XXXX."

You will see SOME smoke on initial acceleration, but it should clear as the boost comes on. It shouldn't be heavy, but you'll still see it.

If you're not, you're not getting the turbo(s) spooled as fast as you can.

If you pull away from a stop light and see a light haze as you're pulling off, but it clears up quick, you're doing okay.

You've got to toss heat and pressure at the turbo, otherwise it just sits there. With a little bit of smoke, comes a little extra heat and it gets the turbo(s) moving.

Unfortunately, unless you're running it on straight propane and nitrous, you're gonna have some smoke with larger turbo(s). If not, you're leaving response on the table.

The only cure for that is being able to do the "fine adjustments" within the tables and setting them to fit your truck.

SSR isn't set up like that, it's basically "coarse adjustments".

Let's say you reduce the duration to control the smoke a bit. That's great in the low RPM range, but once you bring in the boost and the heat, you won't have the fuel to make power.

If you could go, "From idle to 1400 RPM's, I want XX....from 1400 - 2100, I want this..... from 2100 - 3200, I want this, etc..", that would be ideal as it give you the flexibility to add / subtract as the engines conditions dictate.

Obviously, you need to base that on load, RPM, boost, etc., so it's a little more complicated than that, but you get the picture.

SSR is giving us more flexibility than ANY of the previous Smarty's, but there will still be some trade off's.
 
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No, I haven't. Between being at the doctors twice a week to all the other crap, I just haven't had time and haven't been real inclined to as mine runs pretty damn well on 1.3.

My truck was not happy at all on 1.4 and I haven't had time to strap it back down for a few hours to play with 1.4

I've got something in mind that I'm gonna try as soon as I get the time, but for now it's kind of low on the pole.

On 1.3, my truck is running better than it ever has. Track times are down (average is 2/10's faster than my previous fast time), there's no rail hang, smoke output is down, 60's times are down, EGT's are good....I really can't complain.

I don't always subscribe to the "gotta have the newest thing out" mentality. If what's there works, I'll probably stick with until I see something with drastic improvement.

It's like those medicine commericals....if the side effects are worse that what you're treating, I'll pass.
 
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heh. I've been thinking about going back. however 1.4 is a tad smoother in the low to high transitions
 
Those transitions are smooth if the settings are relatively close to each other.

The bigger the change, the more abrupt the transition is.

That's one of the things I want to know. WHERE is the transition point? If it's at a given RPM or a calculated load, that's something we could work with.


If we were able to adjust that tranisition point, that would be awesome; be it based on calculated load or a set RPM.

But, right now we don't know.

I know I sound like a dead horse, but knowing that stuff helps guys tune.

Being able to adjust it would be even better. Knowing how I drive, if I could set the LL to be at 2500 RPM's or 60% load and below, that would give me a good basis for my daily driving (LL) and my gitcha some driving (HL) settings.

But, right now, we're guessing and until / unless Marco decides to provide that info, we'll still be guessing.
 
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I thought it was around 2500 rpm, but I think it's switching around 2100 with my driving style. It's pretty unpredictable at this point.
 
Cummin-a-long said:
Jason, no matter what you do, combine big sticks and big turbos and you're gonna have some smoke trying to get it lit. Running a moderate size single with some pretty damn healthy sticks is gonna make some smoke.

On mine, even with the smaller top charger and my 37 LPH sticks, I still get a haze on acceleration, but if I'm not driving like a 'tard, it clears up within a few seconds. If I bog the motor, like right when it locks the TC in 4th gear and roll into the throttle it'll cloud pretty good; there's just no boost to clear it up under those conditions.

The main problem is that the rail pressure, timing and duration settings on the SSR are "blanket" settings. It's not like you can go in and say, "In this RPM range, I want XX timing, XX RP, XX duration. In this range, I want XXX and here I want XXXX."

You will see SOME smoke on initial acceleration, but it should clear as the boost comes on. It shouldn't be heavy, but you'll still see it.

If you're not, you're not getting the turbo(s) spooled as fast as you can.

If you pull away from a stop light and see a light haze as you're pulling off, but it clears up quick, you're doing okay.

You've got to toss heat and pressure at the turbo, otherwise it just sits there. With a little bit of smoke, comes a little extra heat and it gets the turbo(s) moving.

Unfortunately, unless you're running it on straight propane and nitrous, you're gonna have some smoke with larger turbo(s). If not, you're leaving response on the table.

The only cure for that is being able to do the "fine adjustments" within the tables and setting them to fit your truck.

SSR isn't set up like that, it's basically "coarse adjustments".

Let's say you reduce the duration to control the smoke a bit. That's great in the low RPM range, but once you bring in the boost and the heat, you won't have the fuel to make power.

If you could go, "From idle to 1400 RPM's, I want XX....from 1400 - 2100, I want this..... from 2100 - 3200, I want this, etc..", that would be ideal as it give you the flexibility to add / subtract as the engines conditions dictate.

Obviously, you need to base that on load, RPM, boost, etc., so it's a little more complicated than that, but you get the picture.

SSR is giving us more flexibility than ANY of the previous Smarty's, but there will still be some trade off's.
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I whole agree with everything you have said. I have been able to reduce smoke on my truck to a slight haze and only a hard whiff of black smoke initial tip in. She does clear up pretty fast.

I just wanted to add to your post.

Did a small driving experiment this weekend. 300 mile round trip with mileage calculations. Mileage is important I am sure to most of us and with the tnt-r I was able to get a consistant 19-20 mpg with the tnt-r on 7.On the first leg of my trip, these were my settings:
LLT: 30
HLT: 25
LRP: 5
HRP: 5
LLD: 12
HLD: 12

I have not been able to get to the dyno, will get to it sometime thing wk which is why my HL setting are conservative.On this run, first part of my trip I was able to get 15.4 mpg.Which to me is cr**py since my truck will do better with no programmer by about .3 mpg.

Now on the second leg I used the close to tnt-r 7 setting posted.
LLT: 15
HLT: 25
LRP: 1
HRP: 5
LLD: 20
HLD: 12

I kept my HL setting pretty much untouched and lowered the duration and RP since last time I tried these setting is smoked badly. Results... picked up 2.1 mpg up to 17.5 mpg. Marco stated that over advancing LLT does not really matter in his instruction but I beg to differ. I want to get back to 18.5 mpg or more. Lets see how my next trip goes.

I wanted to mention this since some of us are seeing varied results with our setting. We keep asking for answers and it falls on deaf ears. Our setting I get the feeling are not linear. If we start to pick setting where in a map is a dip or a rise(since Marco stated he cut the various maps into 50 equal pieces) and that is what we get. Maybe we pick a higher timing setting and in reality it is less. I really don't think this is what Marco did but since he won't answer questions we are left to speculate.

Cummin-a-long,

You are right, The SSR is the best thing for us at this time and we do get flexibility. Picking what we want at what RPM I would imagine is what will be worked on next. Let hope that Marco will get to some of these thing sooner rather than later.
 
no matter what, driving a manual with light smoke with big sticks and keeping performance good on the big end is nearly possible thus far. in 5th or 6ths, tip in puff and it clears, under 45 it's a smoke show.

just feels like it need more boost reference
 
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Jason, with your setup, I would INCREASE RP and DECREASE duration.

You've got some big sticks for that size charger and those nozzles are gonna need some pressure to atomize the fuel well.

Bump up the pressure and decrease the duration and you should see some reduction in the smoke output but still maintain good power.
 
Cummin-a-long said:
Jason, with your setup, I would INCREASE RP and DECREASE duration.

You've got some big sticks for that size charger and those nozzles are gonna need some pressure to atomize the fuel well.

Bump up the pressure and decrease the duration and you should see some reduction in the smoke output but still maintain good power.
Click to expand...

Maybe I never decreased duration enough when I tried the low duration and higher pressure. Getting the rail to hang with just rail pressure around 20-30 range was easy. I'll start to run the duration lower and lower and pressure higher and high.
 
JasonCzerak said:
Marco,

Can you lessen the pilot injection?
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Jason, the pilot injection isn't the problem in that lower RPM range. The only thing turning that off will do is make the truck sound like a 12V.

At higher RPM's it's pointless, but down low it reduces the pressure spike in the cylinder. It would be nice if under the HL settings it was gone, but in the LL settings it'll just make more noise and increase the pressure spike during the main injection.

The one that's useless is the post injection. All that does is dirty up the exhaust and the oil.
 
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Cummin-a-long said:
Jason, the pilot injection isn't the problem in that lower RPM range. The only thing turning that off will do is make the truck sound like a 12V.

At higher RPM's it's pointless, but down low it reduces the pressure spike in the cylinder. It would be nice if under the HL settings it was gone, but in the LL settings it'll just make more noise and increase the pressure spike during the main injection.

The one that's useless is the post injection. All that does is dirty up the exhaust and the oil.
Click to expand...

Completely incorrect sir.

Correct pilot quantity is just as important to smoke control as duration of the main event is.

Removing the pilot is counter productive, but adjusting how much mm3 of fuel is injected during the pilot event is critical with larger injectors to keeping smoke down

I'm not here to muddy the waters of a great product, but I have to intervene when I see incorrect information.

~Les
 
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