SSR New Release Info and Results Thread...

JasonCzerak said:
I have to get my self an auto... I figured these tunes work better with more rpm's, like a converter can enable.
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All depends on what you are doing, I guess. Having a 6 speed when towing heavy would be nice. Daily driving and racing I sure like my auto. The converter and the shift points have to be matched to the rest of the setup. An auto that isn't setup right is much worse then driving a stick. LOL

Paul
 
doug60 said:
If iI read correctly #1 LLR is the stock equivalent.
I would like to see lower than stock LLR.

Im at 18,000 LBS doing 25 MPH under lite acceleration.
Its not necessary, I would like to see 15 /16000 under those conditions.

Smoke, it takes a deliberate stab to get smoke. Im very pleased with the smoke control so far .
Although its been around 70 degrees during those test runs.
Hot & humid could be a little different.
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But if you lower the rail you can/will have less atomization and may cause a dip when you demand more power causing smoke until the pump catches up. I think. I like maintaining 18-20k cruising because I think it can create better mileage.
 
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JasonCzerak said:
pumps? ATS, 2 floorit stage 2's. TC's RV adapter to allow the sensor on the rail
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Nice. I was talking about turbos but I guess I got my details mixed up somewhere in the couple dozen pages of this thread on who has dual pumps and twin turbos and what not ha. My mistake.
 
gecoveyc said:
Nice. I was talking about turbos but I guess I got my details mixed up somewhere in the couple dozen pages of this thread on who has dual pumps and twin turbos and what not ha. My mistake.
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ED single 66/73/13ss is all I got for turbo's :) For now. swapping in an auto would open the door for something big to hang under this little one.
 
JasonCzerak said:
ED single 66/73/13ss is all I got for turbo's :) For now. swapping in an auto would open the door for something big to hang under this little one.
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Having a built auto these days would open lots of doors haha after my input shaft snapped for the second time within 5 months this past winter I was pricing auto's and getting ready to do the swap. Smoke Machine talked me out of it and I switched clutches instead. I'm glad he did because I like the 6 speed a lot and take great pride in my 1/4 mile times with one of these. Sure it would be a helluvalot faster with an auto but skill with a 6 speed means more to me right now....at least until it breaks again ha
 
gecoveyc said:
Having a built auto these days would open lots of doors haha after my input shaft snapped for the second time within 5 months this past winter I was pricing auto's and getting ready to do the swap. Smoke Machine talked me out of it and I switched clutches instead. I'm glad he did because I like the 6 speed a lot and take great pride in my 1/4 mile times with one of these. Sure it would be a helluvalot faster with an auto but skill with a 6 speed means more to me right now....at least until it breaks again ha
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Skill. meh, :) I just wanna get going 0-60 with out skill and do it quickly on the street.
 
O trust me I hear ya with that. As soon as I finally accomplish what I set out to do with this truck over building it up the past 7 years I'll most likely be parting it out and selling it to get a newer one with an auto and start all over....or just finally put an auto in this one
 
We better get this thread back to talking about SSR before I get my ass reemed for hijacking haha
 
augerdickmining said:
Wow! Never thought of that. I asked a simple question and get a dumbass answer like this. But the close to stock tune is doing fine.
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You're only about the 30th person to chime into this thread and jump straight to the last page and ask us to come up with tune that'll work specifically for your truck. Every truck is different and if you read through even a quarter of this thread you would've seen that there are not 2 trucks on here that are running close to the same numbers so we can't really begin to tell you what to start yours at.

Several of the people on this thread have spent lots and lots of hours figuring out settings and all the ins and outs of this new programmer on a dyno. They don't appreciate people trying to cut the corners and jump in here and instantly expect someone to provide them with an immediate answer. I'm not saying I've spent near the time or done near the research most of these guys have but I took what they said and applied it to my own application and asked a few questions here and there when I didn't understand stuff and it's working out just fine.

Long story short you're going to have to have to experiment. Start with the SW#7 settings that came with it and adjust from there
 
augerdickmining said:
Wow! Never thought of that. I asked a simple question and get a dumbass answer like this. But the close to stock tune is doing fine.
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You know each truck reacts diff. to the ssr, never mind any perf. tuner...so on asking what would be a safe tow set up isn't really fair. I kinda did the same in an earlier post...After reading some info. then seeing the near stock settings, answered my own question.

Say someone did say sit it at ______. Then you did some damage to your motor, you're not going to be a happy camper never mind someone else reading the same tow settings advise.....

Right now, no one really has their truck completely dialed in...(forgive me for those who do). I know I'm still not, only thing that's working for me is the tq3...as I stated before, my trans. runs hotter and shifts harder on tq1/tq2. Vanillagorilla and I seem to be the only 2 that run tq3.

My trans build consists of a stock stahl GOERENDS conv., high pressure vb. all to work with twin turbos (dps 62 over 74), stg III cp3, ddp 90's. Right now still have a stock cam...thinking of going to roller rockers from harland sharp with higher ratio which would basicly change the cam ramp and getting a dual pump set up. That's my plans as of now.
 
I really wasn't looking for a specific tune but I was wanting to get a ball park idea on the lld and hld but after messing around with it the close to stock tune does fine with low egt's which is what I was looking for.
 
Okay, for those that are seeing the "dip" in the rail pressure in that middle RPM range as you roll into the throttle, here is what looks like is happening.

This IS NOT a tune from SSR, this is the OEM RP map and you can see that nasty dip in the middle RPM range (1200 - 2200)...right where you'd be if you were cruising and rolled into the throttle.

I'm not sure how Marco addressed this, and NO I'm not going to show his maps (i.e. his intellectual property). But, if that dip wasn't addressed, that's part of the dip in RP issue.....

RailPressureMap.jpg


Here's a better angle on that dip....you can see it right beyond 1200 RPM's. Looks like it hits between 1200 - 1600.

RailPressureSide.jpg
 
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