Variable Geometry (SDX Spool Flange) S300 (eventually compounds) thread!

Got back from a quick test ride to get a nice easy heat cycle in the charger before beating on it. Its raining its ass off so couldn't beat on it if I wanted to regardless. Things are not perfect as the picture of the elbow would show need to find a 15-30 degree silicone elbow to fix the misalignment.

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The elbow is about 1/2" away from the fender but honestly it can be moved much farther back toward the motor. Because of the misalignment of the cummins discharge elbow and the intercooler pipe I had to rotate the cover clockwise to get the discharge closer to the fender. Again hope to fix this with the proper silicone hose. I run a Peak (or Peke can't remember) diesel lower intercooler boot and would like to get a 15-30* 3" ID boot if they make one.
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The air line I was using blew off the turbo shutting the valve during the first wot run with the new turbo which caused me to over spin the turbo and eat a thrust bearing and compressor wheel. Expecting Jose to ship the turbo back to me Monday after the repairs. The failure was my fault and I will be addressing the air line. The turbo failure didn't seem to cause many issues as i've bore scoped the pistons and removed/cleaned the intercooler. Hoping for better luck when I get the turbo back.
 
NickTF said:
The air line I was using blew off the turbo shutting the valve during the first wot run with the new turbo which caused me to over spin the turbo and eat a thrust bearing and compressor wheel. Expecting Jose to ship the turbo back to me Monday after the repairs. The failure was my fault and I will be addressing the air line. The turbo failure didn't seem to cause many issues as i've bore scoped the pistons and removed/cleaned the intercooler. Hoping for better luck when I get the turbo back.
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That ****ın sucks!
 
Oh, and for all those wanting drive numbers you're going to get them given i'm not going wot one time without having a drive gauge on this time around.
 
So I'm back up and running and got some wot drive readings albeit only in 3rd locked given its 30 out and we had a very light snow yesterday. I ended up with 53ish psi boost and 65 psi of drive. I think I would end up with a bit more boost and drive in OD but not a whole lot. It is important to note that Jose thought I would definitely need a gate or larger housing with this turbo to get all 94lbs/min from it so i'm pretty certain the housing is responsible for the back pressure recorded not the flange but that is simply my best estimate. I'm going to try to keep a permanent gauge on the truck to monitor drive so hoping JGS comes up with good results on that permanent soot trap. Pictures with descriptions of changes made below.

This is my drive gauge setup for the time being. I bend the copper tubing up under and through the hood at the cowl where it just sticks up as I drive down the road. The filter is just a paint gun filter from NAPA.
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Another shot of the gauge setup.
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30* elbow from silicone intakes.com. Thanks for the recommendation Jose! Only $16 plus shipping!
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The new clamps for the boost line to the spool flange! The line is now 200psi fuel line clamped with what were called double split collars all bought from Ace Hardware. The split collars are 7/16" and use two allen head bolts to apply clamping force which is far stronger than the small hose clamps I was using before. They are pricey though at $7/each however given the cost if this line blows off well well worth the investment!
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Overall shot from the passenger side. I need to get Levi's blanket back on to gain some additional spool.
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Interested to hear how daily driving that thing is. I'm wanting to switch to a set of twins using my old HX35, but if this SDX flange is changing the drivability of larger singles then I'm game for one.

Im not trying to put the biggest turbo under my hood being that I daily drive and now starting to tow a lot more with my truck so this makes my 64/71 a little too laggy for my taste now.
 
The truck drives excellently with this flange and turbo setup but alot of this is due to the injectors and delivery valve setup. At 70mph/2000rpm cruise i'm seeing 800 egts and 5-6 psi from an s400 single on a stock head stock cam 12 valve. There is nearly zero smoke now with this setup. I have not had it through the heat of summer which is certain to make a difference but honestly I don't expect significantly worse results when it heats up regarding driveability. As you can see from the title of this thread my original plan was for twins and thus far i'm happy I decided to stick with a single. Just my two cents.
 
I'll bet you blow up that silicone-intakes.com 30* hose the first time you go to the drag strip.

The boots themselves are are strong enough to hold the pressure. I've tested them to 130 psi with my air compressor trying to make them explode and they wont. The weak point is when you push high boost from a turbo setup, the charge air temps exceed the 350*F maximum and the polyester cords inside the boot melt and fail. This is especially true when you put a bend on the turbo discharge because high temp boost is changing direction on the wall of the hose so it absorbs heat quickly and melts from the inside out.

I had problems with my GT4294 pushing 45 psi with a 45* hose on the discharge. For street driving, zero to 80 MPH WOT, no problems. As soon as I took it to the track, they would blow up every 3-4 passes somewhere around 100-110 MPH.

In my next setup, I was using a 45* silicone intakes hose on the HT4B discharge in the twins setup. Those boots would make it about 6 passes before exploding somewhere in the 90-115 MPH range. On the street, no problems, however, driving 100 MPH on the street never happens. I quickly came to the conclusion that 3-4 seconds of high boost was not long enough to melt the reinforcing cords, but 10-12 seconds was. I do hit 54 psi between stages on the topend, but interstage boost doesn't really get above 35 psi till the meat of 3rd gear.

I have since learned that even the straight couplers have problems at the top end of the track when you're pushing 85 psi boost. Usually it takes 3-4 hot laps to heat soak the boots and sure enough, even the straight hoses will burst.


I reiterate, for street driving, I think the silicone-intakes hoses/boots are fine. For drag racing, they are not reliable in my opinion. (I've seriously blown up about 10 of their boots, it took a while to "use them up".....)
 
^^^ Thanks, I will keep an eye on this during my track visit which right now is planned for March 4. Hopefully charge air temps are cool enough at only 53psi through this big ole race cover but if not it is what it is. I looked at Peak stuff first but they didn't make any 30* straight 3" ID piece.
 
Genuine 4-ply Silicone (5 silicone layers plus 4 reinforcement layers = 9 total layers!)
Installer can cut silicone parts down to fit with a razor
Heat tolerance: -40° to 392° Fahrenheit
Burst Pressure: 200 PSI
Working Pressure: 50 PSI
Wall Size: 4 mm - 5 mm
Compatible with antifreeze/coolant

Just did a double check and they are supposedly good to 392* F. Hopefully I won't be exceeding that threshold. I would not think your larger primary blowing into a secondary which creates vacuum would heat air more than my much smaller 67 s400 but who knows for certain.
 
NickTF said:
The truck drives excellently with this flange and turbo setup but alot of this is due to the injectors and delivery valve setup. At 70mph/2000rpm cruise i'm seeing 800 egts and 5-6 psi from an s400 single on a stock head stock cam 12 valve. There is nearly zero smoke now with this setup. I have not had it through the heat of summer which is certain to make a difference but honestly I don't expect significantly worse results when it heats up regarding driveability. As you can see from the title of this thread my original plan was for twins and thus far i'm happy I decided to stick with a single. Just my two cents.
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Did you ever drive your 64mm with out the SDX Flange? If so how does it compare to your 67 with the flange?

I'm still leaning towards twins because I would like to see lower cruising temps.
 
SuperDave4x4 said:
Did you ever drive your 64mm with out the SDX Flange? If so how does it compare to your 67 with the flange?

I'm still leaning towards twins because I would like to see lower cruising temps.
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Yes. Honestly there is not a ton of difference in spool between the two but i've not had this 67 in weather hotter than 55 degrees either. I would not expect much change though, some, but not much. I feel as if I could drive a larger charger without any problem at all.
 
NickTF said:
Genuine 4-ply Silicone (5 silicone layers plus 4 reinforcement layers = 9 total layers!)
Installer can cut silicone parts down to fit with a razor
Heat tolerance: -40° to 392° Fahrenheit
Burst Pressure: 200 PSI
Working Pressure: 50 PSI
Wall Size: 4 mm - 5 mm
Compatible with antifreeze/coolant

Just did a double check and they are supposedly good to 392* F. Hopefully I won't be exceeding that threshold. I would not think your larger primary blowing into a secondary which creates vacuum would heat air more than my much smaller 67 s400 but who knows for certain.
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I am thinking on a hard run you will exceed the 392 degree discharge temp. It may not be long enough to exceed the temp on the coupler though.
 
zstroken said:
I am thinking on a hard run you will exceed the 392 degree discharge temp. It may not be long enough to exceed the temp on the coupler though.
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Well Dan I hope not but we're going to find out one way or the other:rockwoot:
 
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