HTT wastegate TEMPORARY FIX, while waiting for the real

ok. at 45psi on the compressor. you can move the arm your self a fraction of an inch. any above that it's "lose"

If I try really hard, I can from what I can tell, move the bottom puck with my finger with no air pressure. I can't do the same on the top puck.

So, I still think the bottom puck will vent air first. I'll leave the air actuator on the turbo. it should open at 45 psi of drive pressure right? See how that goes.. This way if there are still issues, HTT can rule out the actuator type as well.

I'll run with this for a week and then see if I need to switch actuators.
 
JasonCzerak said:
ok. at 45psi on the compressor. you can move the arm your self a fraction of an inch. any above that it's "lose"

If I try really hard, I can from what I can tell, move the bottom puck with my finger with no air pressure. I can't do the same on the top puck.

So, I still think the bottom puck will vent air first. I'll leave the air actuator on the turbo. it should open at 45 psi of drive pressure right? See how that goes.. This way if there are still issues, HTT can rule out the actuator type as well.

I'll run with this for a week and then see if I need to switch actuators.
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45 psi of boost, it will actually open slightly sooner, as you have drive pressure pushing on the pucks, plus the boost of the actuator.
 
RonA said:
I've bought 12 or so S300's. Never got one for 1/2 what HTT charges. You Union guys aren't supposed to shop at WalMart.
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I dont!
Neither does my wife!

Wal-Mart= DEATH OF AMERICA!!

Support you local stores!!

Funny thing is they build them UNION around here.

My bumper sticker on my 12valve says:

BIODIESEL
FEED A FARMER
STARVE A TERRORIST!

RED, WHITE and BLUE BOYS!!

Happy 4th of JULY!

BTW Ron, you do NICE work!!

Sorry about the rant guys, back to wastegates!
 
Just giving you a bad time. By the way, I have been told it takes more energy to grow, harvest, and process biodiesel than you get out of the biodiesel.
 
Well my wastegate is a manual one.No actuator.What do I do?Thinking of shimming the spring and adding 4 washers.
 
RonA said:
Just giving you a bad time. By the way, I have been told it takes more energy to grow, harvest, and process biodiesel than you get out of the biodiesel.
Click to expand...

I know:Cheer:

I still feel I am helping out the world, and beating the system.
 
Well. Everything is in with exception of the turbo and manifold blankets... took 8 hours.. ended up have 1 nut and 1 bolt on the turbo not be very cooperative.

A dremel, hack saw hammer+screw driver and an air cut off wheel were needed. Manifold flange nut and the bot on the exhaust housing RIGHT UNDER THE OIL FEED TUBE. all the corners stripped off with ease these nuts and bolts. why is that one bolt right under the feed tube? :)

Anywho. $10 in 6 new nuts from Cummins for the manifold. Wow. yeah. wow.

And to top it off. We lost a manifold gasket.... so, I split 2 others to make a up for the missing one. right as we were putting hte air cleaner on, found it.. YES.. this morning I unbolted the manifold and fix it up.

And even better. I forgot to tighen the by-pass line all the way down.. 2-3 quarts of oil coated the bottom of the truck... used about 5 cans of de-greaser to get most of it off just now.

Spool is better.. it's still better the "next day", unlike the original topic of this thread. I'm using the boost actuator right now. I made a few turns on the shaft and with no boost supply it's set to 50 up to 5th gear. with the supply line down to 45. To many cops out to take a good run in 6th.

low end from a stop like. truck is smoother and less smokey on #8 TM 2 then with #5 TM 1. So that's a plus.

I'm still worried about the bottom puck. I was still able to push it with my finger. I'm about to take my 4 hour trip soon here. I'll get a better feel for the "flutter" in the boost gauge.

Stay tuned.
 
Just got back from my little trip. 180 miles total. little more then 20 miles toying around after the turbo was initally installed. On this trip I had the opportunity to go way past the "120" mark on the speedo a few times.

Boost is very erratic. In 6th on TNT/R #5 over 3000rpm boost falls to 45psi. Runs clear too and pulls very hard. However, I have this flutter in the gauge. the exhaust isn't smooth sounding either.

I can see the flutter starting around 20psi. I have fear that it's the same problem. I'm going to pull the turbo again. Same process I started 24 hours ago.

The plan is to pull the cover and see if I can fit a feeler gauge under the bottom puck with the boost actuator set as it sits right now (50psi needed to un-hook it). Take lots of pictures and post here and send to HTT.

I'll reinstall the turbo with the bulls eye gate if nothing's bent! See how that works out. the bulls eye did seem to play nicer then the boost acuator one.

If I still have a flutter, I'll need do a boost test, but I'm 90% sure my truck is sealed up to 60psi. no soapy bubbles.

I had a few conversations with Mr RonA. there is one last idea that I know was in another thread (possibly this one?) that he will build for me should the worst be true. Otherwise, I'd just weld up the holes and phone ED for an external gate setup. We'll see.

Keep in mind. I'm doing all this on my own. Partly cuz I have no life right now and partly cuz the GF off doing other stuff this weekend with friends. LOL
 
The latest and greatest SS housing sure seem to be falling on their faces. How long have they been out for? Almost 3 years?

I'll stick with the cast iron housing, they have been out as long as the turbo has.

When I do my twins this winter, I'll just plan on doing a external wastegate, seems cheaper and less headaches.
 
Latest update. Upon inspection of the gate.. there wasn't a feeler gauge I could find to get under the puck. .0015 I think is hte smallest I have. Nothing looked bent.. I did not pull the manifold from the turbo. It was still to hot and the nut wasn't budget with the open ended box wrench. So to prevent another session of cutting the nut off the bolt, I opted to skip that step.

I have pics I'll post later. I wanna tune in the bulls eye gauge now and get some dinner.

:)

So to recap. the new gate looks good. I bet my "flutter" is all in the boost actuator
 
tony597fitter said:
The latest and greatest SS housing sure seem to be falling on their faces. How long have they been out for? Almost 3 years?

I'll stick with the cast iron housing, they have been out as long as the turbo has.

When I do my twins this winter, I'll just plan on doing a external wastegate, seems cheaper and less headaches.
Click to expand...

Well, let the growing pains work them selves out. :) There are pros to the SS housing.
 
Dont get me wrong, I really like the theory of the SS housings.
I wish someone could mill one WITHOUT the internal wastegate, so we could just do an external.
External gates offer better performance and more adjustability.

That is a combo I would be interested in.

Maybe E.D. could whip something up.
 
JasonCzerak said:
Just got back from my little trip. 180 miles total. little more then 20 miles toying around after the turbo was initally installed. On this trip I had the opportunity to go way past the "120" mark on the speedo a few times.

Boost is very erratic. In 6th on TNT/R #5 over 3000rpm boost falls to 45psi. Runs clear too and pulls very hard. However, I have this flutter in the gauge. the exhaust isn't smooth sounding either.

I can see the flutter starting around 20psi. I have fear that it's the same problem. I'm going to pull the turbo again. Same process I started 24 hours ago.

The plan is to pull the cover and see if I can fit a feeler gauge under the bottom puck with the boost actuator set as it sits right now (50psi needed to un-hook it). Take lots of pictures and post here and send to HTT.

I'll reinstall the turbo with the bulls eye gate if nothing's bent! See how that works out. the bulls eye did seem to play nicer then the boost acuator one.

If I still have a flutter, I'll need do a boost test, but I'm 90% sure my truck is sealed up to 60psi. no soapy bubbles.

I had a few conversations with Mr RonA. there is one last idea that I know was in another thread (possibly this one?) that he will build for me should the worst be true. Otherwise, I'd just weld up the holes and phone ED for an external gate setup. We'll see.

Keep in mind. I'm doing all this on my own. Partly cuz I have no life right now and partly cuz the GF off doing other stuff this weekend with friends. LOL
Click to expand...



You sure you don't have valve lash too tight? I don't think this gauge flutter is coming from the gate. Can you hear the turbine speed oscillate at the same frequency as your guage flutter?
 
tony597fitter said:
External gates offer better performance and more adjustability.
Click to expand...

And more headaches. If you can run an internal and it will do the job run the internal. An external has its place, and can have advantages, primarily being much larger than the internals.
 
zstroken said:
And more headaches. If you can run an internal and it will do the job run the internal. An external has its place, and can have advantages, primarily being much larger than the internals.
Click to expand...

More headaches than whats going on now with HTTs disaster?:hehe:

Doubt it.
 
tony597fitter said:
More headaches than whats going on now with HTTs disaster?:hehe:

Doubt it.
Click to expand...


Do you have either? Doubt it.:hehe:

Once the puck issue is fixed on the internal gate what other issues do you forsee? The external gate will require adjusting, and there is alot more areas of failure, regulator drift, regulator failure etc. If an internal wastegate was available for the turbo I run, it would be on it. With an adjustable elbow and a threaded rod you can get about all the adjustability that you need with an internal gate.
Also you can set up an internal with a shop compressor easily, and it will get you close. Setting up the external requires more work, you have to compensate for the internal spring, have more ports etc, etc.
 
zstroken said:
Do you have either? Doubt it.:hehe:

Once the puck issue is fixed on the internal gate what other issues do you forsee? The external gate will require adjusting, and there is alot more areas of failure, regulator drift, regulator failure etc. If an internal wastegate was available for the turbo I run, it would be on it. With an adjustable elbow and a threaded rod you can get about all the adjustability that you need with an internal gate.
Also you can set up an internal with a shop compressor easily, and it will get you close. Setting up the external requires more work, you have to compensate for the internal spring, have more ports etc, etc.
Click to expand...

You mean IF the puck issue ever gets fixed. To me it doesnt sound like HTT really cares.

As far as wastegates, Not on my diesel.
But i have ran quite a few when I had my turbo charged stang.(Before turbos were cool)
My bro runs one on his 88 rx7, that puts 450rwhp to the ground out of a 1.3liter that runs 10.80s.

And my best friend runs 2 of them on his big block 454 with twin 88s. Helped him for 3 years building that beast.


What a little setup and adjusting to have a better setup. I like to tinker.

I guess you know all.:hehe:
 
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